I have an issue with the Tachometers on the bridge and lower helm. All 4 of them do not work, the synchronizer gauge on the bridge works. There isn't one at the lower helm. I would think is would be bad ground from the engines some place. The synchronizer gauge works. That right there leaves me If anyone can clue me in how they all work together. That would be a great help. Thanks

Hello, I purchased my '96 325 Aft Cabin last fall. It came with a Bruce anchor and we're having some challenges getting the anchor off and on the boat. It sets great. We have a Lewmar windless. Looking for recommendations for a self-launching solution that fits the pulpit on the 325 Aft Cabin.

This is my first real issue with the boat. When I bought it, it was surveyed. There were no reports of issues with the shower drains. I have used the master stateroom shower and it drains fine. Last wknd I used the hall shower and it did not drain. The Carver ops manual refers to an 'optional gray water tank'. I do not have a gray water tank.

Section two discusses the sump pump, and operation with a 'breaker' to enable:

2.2.1.2 Auto Sump - Forward and Aft
This breaker controls the flow of electricity to the forward and aft sump
pumps. Because the sumps are located below the boat’s water line, the
sump pumps are needed to pump shower waste water, sink waste water
and air conditioning condensation overboard or into the optional grey
water tank. Each sump pump is activated automatically by a float switch
whenever water within the sump rises above a predetermined level.
Switch the Auto Sump - Forward circuit breaker “ON” before using the
air conditioning or showers and sinks in the port and starboard heads.
Switch the Auto Sump - Aft circuit breaker “ON” before using the optional
crew quarters’ air conditioning, shower or sink.

Well, I don't have a 'auto sump' breaker anywhere on my DC panel either. I know the drain for the sinks is working as they drain well. When it was surveyed, I don't think they ran the shower enough to have the auto float switch. Which leads to these questions:

1. Does anyone know where this sump pump breaker is supposed to be on the DC panel? I don't have it listed.
2. Does anyone know where the tank and pump and switch are located in the engine bay so it can be tested/fixed?
3. I KNOW not to use a plunger on the vacu-flush as it will invert the flapper of the valve. Can I use a plunger on the shower drain in case there's a blockage?

The hall way bathroom sink seems to drain just fine. I would presume they go to the same tank, so I'm fairly sure I have a blockage in the shower to tank section. Any assist would be appreciated.

I have a leaking seal and want to know if I have to pull engine to remove and repair?
Has anyone here done this? I have 1998 Mariner. Transmission is 10-18-002 ratio 1:1

Good morning/afternoon/evening Carver yacht Owners. My wife Rita and I are new owners of a 1988 Carver 4207 (gas) that is up in the Detroit area. She is a vessel that has been in storage for the past 6-years as the result of the owners death and a contested probate estate that delayed transfer of the vessel to the Grandson, that we purchased her from.
Her tanks were both filled for the storage and Grandson has drained them to empty noting that there was some fine white precipitate that cam out of the bottom of the port tank. As a chemist, with fuels/lubrication experience, I have an idea what he was finding, and will flush the tanks with a few gallons of anhydrous isopropyl alcohol prior to refilling. The Grandson was running the engines off a 5-gallon fuel container for demo purposes. He did not clearly identify how the fuels lines were plumbed. I see a fuels water separator on each engine but there is also a single larger parker made fuel water separator between the two engines that appears to feed the port engine only.

My question is would you have a larger parker filter/segregator going into a secondary (oil filter) type filter separator mounted on the engine itself? And if so, why only to the port engine?

Also, I have been contending with some small old PEX (grey) water leaks at "T" joints. My recent five day trip to the boat was spent finding these leaks and replacing the old PEX lines with new. So far so good with that effort, until I had to remove the ice maker, as the "T" for it to the water dispenser above had a small leak. Only had 2-inches of pipe to work with upon ice maker removal. But managed.

Lastly, do not seem to have electric to the light in engine room, V-Birth outlet and light over vanity in forward head. There is a two gang switch going down steps to Galley of which one turns on galley overhead lights but other (has red light on switch) does not seem to be powered. Can anyone tell me what that switch controls?

I thank everyone in advance for reviewing my post and welcome any constructive comments on my questions. We have to get this old girl up and ready for a 140 mile cruise to he new home port of Cleveland Ohio rather quickly, and appreciate the help of our fellow carver owners. Thank you Admins for providing this user network and to the members of which we are excited to be a part.

Warm Regards,
-Jerry & Rita.

I purchased a 2006 Voyager Pilothouse 57 last Nov. This is my first summer of use, and only had it out of the slip twice.

I have a lot of prev boating experience on 18-27', this is my first big boat. 52,500 Lbs worth. I'm in N Texas, retired engineer and do only pleasure cruising, a bit of fishing and a little skeet shooting, but I make up for my lack of effort by drinking a lot. But - not on the high seas, er - high lake?

I was so worried last winter about freezing I bought a bunch of the anti-freeze for the water system. My slip has power year around, but it's possible for the power to go out. I was the only one in the marina that drained my fresh and added the 12 gal of anti-freeze. The engine room has the ceramic heaters, and is below water line(kinda).

Still have a lot to learn but having a good time tootling around and towing a jet ski. I likely have to post a few times to add pics, but once I can, I'll add a pic of my ride.

Hi all, is this indicator still working on your boat? On my 2000 350 Mariner with gas engines it s totally dead

Hello, we bought this boat several months ago and have done alot of upgrades/repairs and the last thing (for now) is the shower. Water flow in works great but I'm trying to learn the drain system before I use it. It has a switch for the pump on the main panel and also next to the shower. When both are on, the pump runs continuously. Looking down the drain, it appears to drain directly into the starboard bulkhead. From the center bilge access, I can see a hose coming in to the pump and back out through the bulkhead wall. From there, it's hard to see anything. I ran it for a little bit and the pump seems to run but all I hear is the occasional gurgle and slight intermittent trickle from what I'm fairly certain is the external mid-hull starboard drain port.
I plan to get a scope to look further but curious if anyone else has journeyed down this road? I searched the internet and found some info about some models with a sump and some with a float pump. No other obvious access to get under the shower. Anyone??

Hi all, I own a 2000 350 Mariner since a couple of months and I still consider myself as a newbie to Carvers.
What is the hull speed and most fuel efficent speed for my boat?

Good day all!

First time poster, long time lurker.

I have a santego 3867, and i noticed an issue. When I'm out and about it feels like my boat isn't getting enough power to run the accessories on 12v.

Like if someone flushes the head, all of the lights go out. The radio some times works, sometimes doesn't, and if i have the 12v refrigerator turned on, it doesn't work at all. If i turn on the lowrance, the autopilot stops working.

I have 3 batteries currently in the engine bay, all 3 test as functional. I was reading the manual and it shows 4 batteries in a picture.

is my boat missing a battery and would that cause all these weird brown out issues?

Thanks!
Chris