We have a 1997 405 that we have had for three years.
We only use the shore water hook up and the on board water tank is basically empty.
We have rv/marine filter on the hose before it enters the boat. And is changed twice a season.
This year, we have noticed the water is milky and has a distinct odor when first using the faucets.
The water will clear up after a short while and the odor will dissipate, but will not entirely go away.
The odor is very foul smelling.
Is there a filter on the boat from where the shore water enters to before the faucets?
The water appears to be clean and odor free directly from the hose before hooking up to the boat.
Thank you for your time and consideration.

I have a 96 Carver Santego 380 that needs an exhaust/water T replaced. The problem is there are 2 surge flappers embedded in the T. So far I cannot find a replacement. I contacted Centek and they said it is no longer manufactured. The closest part is a 4x4x5 T without the anti surge protection inside. Any advice is appreciated I’ve attached pictures below.

I plan on replacing my BP1200 thruster and would like to size the replacement prior to haul out. Does anyone know the tunnel diameter for the 450 Voyager? I was considering just replacing the gear box, but when adding up all the costs it looks like replacing it with a new sidepower isn't that much more so I think I'll go that route.

On my last trip, I noticed a 10 degree increase on the starboard engine gauge. This engine always heated up faster and ran (according to the gauge) 5-10 degrees warmer than the port. However, the gauge is showing 175, while the neck of the coolant filler, near the sending unit is reading 155, which is the same as the port engine. I replaced the gauge and sending unit - no difference. What else shall I look for?

Ok, I have a 2001, model 356, with 2, 30 amp connections. Pretty sure one of the main 30 amp breakers on my electrical panel is going bad and needs replacing. It is listed in my parts manual as #8900333, 30 amp, 3 pole main breaker. I’m sure this breaker was used in many hundreds, if not thousands of Carvers built in that time period.
Doing an internet search of marine breakers, I can’t find this breaker, including a search of West Marine. Any suggestions of where I can look? FYI, I did open up the panel to eyeball this breaker, so I do know what it looks like…just can’t seem to find a replacement.
Thanks.

Hi - just took delivery of a 2002 Carver 450 Voyager and moved her from Anacortes to Tacoma under spectacular blue skies. Took about 7-8 hrs and everything ran fine. Now I have a long list of survey items to rectify for insurance (and myself!). Boat was very dirty inside and out so stripping everything out and starting the clean up. Thruster gear case full of water is one of the first items on the list, minor drip on a Tides shaft seal, fractured davit weld, exhaust elbow replacement and typical safety items. The "to-do" list is a mile long and at this point I'm just trying to get organized so that I have a realistic plan to get this boat back in shape.

Please does anyone need a Westerbeke 3.0kw Marine Generator

Still in perfect working condition

$2500 takes t

My 2000 396 Aft Cabin has three AC units. Two of the three work fine but the salon AC runs and blows air but it is not cold. Any suggestions?

Ok, I have a 356, but I guess it could happen to any model. My main salon door, maybe a 1/4” thick plexiglass, has about an 8” crack at the bottom running upwards. Not causing any issues except the cosmetic appearance. How could this have happened? Will it continue to grow over time ans more importantly, where in the world would I find a replacement door? It’s not just a flat piece of plexiglass, but is shaped like an upside down “L”

Also, the door is physically hard to slide open and shut. A good shot of WD-40 does help for a couple of weeks, but what would be a better lubricant for long term use?

My Norcold DE-461 refrigerator/freezer conked out on my 2001 Santego 380. That unit is out of production as is its replacement. It was a 12V/120V system. I found a 12vdc/120vac Vitrifrio that might fit. But I ave also seen some straight 12vdc untis that might fit and are sinificantly less expensive. Any thoughts on going with a 12vdc system only. Here is my thinking about only having 12dc.
-When I am on shore power at the dock the battery charger will keep the batteries up
-When I wm cruising without gen running, engine altenator will keep the batteries up
-When I am cruising or at anchor with the gen running, the battery charger will keep the batteries up
Is it worth the extra expense for the 12vdc/120vac refrigerator?