My starboard cummings engine does not want to run very much. It's strange because it will shut off on it's own. The tach seems to jump all over the place (I've even seen it go backwards past zero rpms while the engine is still running. The sync gauge (which has never worked) is doing a dance also.
Another clue is sometimes when I try to start the engine, the low oil pressure alarm does not sound. If the alarm does sound, the engine will start but like I said the tach swings all over even though the engine sounds to be running at a constant RPM. I observed that the hour meter for this engine seems to not be counting the hours correctly either.
Does anyone know how I can get ahold of Carver to see if they have a engine and helm wiring diagram for my 2000 Carver 406?
Any advise would be highly appreciated.

I know we have been here a few times, but I am ready to replace the original 1994 Norcold 110V/12V fridge. A little rust, works good, but I am sure it is getting tired. I have seen many models, Norcold, isotherm, Vetrigo. After pulling mine out today I have an idea of what would fit. I can also remove the cubby on top for another 8" verticle clearance. What do you all have and was there any modifications needed? 1994 390 CPMY, Attached is the view behind the fridge. The Norcold has it's deepest point at the bottpm, so these wires dont interfere with placement. However from what I saw they would with the Vetrigo.

Hi there. From Austin Texas!!!
I have a Carver 406 1999.
I am having a really hard time finding a muffler for the starboard engine and hoping to find some resources here.
Thanks in Advance!
Michelle

Hi there. From Austin Texas!!!
I have a Carver 406 1999.
I am having a really hard time finding a muffler for the starboard engine and hoping to find some resources here.
Thanks in Advance!
Michelle

on the main breaker there is one breaker marked waste treatment FWD anyone know what this switch is for Just bought the
1986 3607 and would like to find out what is for

This little section of line has always bothered me since there is a check valve in here so the only way to get pink stuff in this line is by using some sort of pump to force open the check valve/pressure regulator. Used a drill pump for many years but they are so cheap they last only a few years at best and are a pita to prime. Had problems this year until it dawned on me. When I have my wash down pump hooked up to the pink stuff and in the process of filling the lines, simply hook up a short length of garden hose from the wash down outlet to the city inlet and pump a bit in with any tap open to fill that small section of line. So simple but my god it took me 20 years to think that one up. This is going to be my new method from now on. My rear wash down happens to be about 3 feet from My city inlet which makes it a breeze on the 41CMY.

Boat is all winterized now and in hibernation state until next spring.

Hi,
I have to replace a engine room rocker switch, in the process of getting the switch out of the wall plate, the wall plate broke in half.
Having trouble locating a replacement. any suggestions where to look. It is on a 89 38' aft - dual plate - liquor cabinet switch and engine room.

thanks as always
Mitch

2 moths ago I replaced both raw water pumps (Gen V Merc 7.4 Carb) they have teh fuel pump mounted on top with new units. The starboard pumped “Ok” (No over heating) Port pumped a lot! Boat has sat for 5 weeks, and I was getting ready to run it up the river for storage. Port started and pumped fine. Starboard started and would NOT pump water! I took off hoses and primed, filled heat exchanger with raw water, noting at all. A real chore removing this one, but tomorrow out it comes and a rebuild kit goes in. Just disappointed that a new pump (came assembled) just quit pumping. OK, done with the rant!

I’ve decided to rebuilt the 5.7s in my Carver 3207 over the Winter. I need a machine shop for machining and hopefully balancing.

Thanks

A good set of binoculars on board is a must IMHO. I have had a set of 18 x 50 stabilized Canon binos on board for about a decade. https://www.canon.ca/en/product?name=18 ... Binoculars They are the reference stabilized units which all want to surpass. They are rather big and heavy but they do work well. Why stabilized? A boat moves way too much and if you want any decent magnification, non stabilized will be rather useless on most occasions especially while under way.

New kid on the block, Kite Optics. High quality, made in Japan. Oddly enough not available in the USA and very limited suppliers in Canada. Quite prevalent in the rest of the world though. Got my set a few weeks ago and oh my, these are the ones Canon needs to beat now. Much smaller lighter and the stabilization is amazing. Fully waterproof, 30 year warranty however electronics are only 2 years. Can be had for $1565 CDN which is a steal as I paid $2,000 US for the Canons about 10 years ago although prices have come down on these as they age.

https://www.kiteoptics.com/en/nature/pr ... ilized-42/

This is where I got mine. https://khanscope.com/collections/kite- ... s-kost1642