My 1994 390CPMY has 2 30A AC push button breakers under a weather proof cap where the shore power inlets are. Anyone have a source for these? I believe one is getting weak and needs replacement.

Thanks as always!

Tony

So when I moved up from the 44DB to the Carver 506 I knew I was going to miss some of the quality and common sense engineering that I came to enjoy in the Sea Ray. One such goofy thing I decided to change was the access to the engine room. The engine room is accessed via a ladder under the stairs into the cabin. The stairs hinge forward and you climb down a fixed ladder to a landing which you then have to crawl forward five feet on then step down to the center bilge floor where it is almost a stand up situation for servicing the engines. The landing at the foot of the ladder is actually the top of the bow thruster battery box. I have a perfect alternative location for the batteries forward of the genset in the center bilge. There is even a reinforced level floor to support all four batteries. By relocating the batteries (4 Group 31s) forward, I shortened the wire run to the thruster by 15 feet of 04 wire and move the weight forward as well. I removed 100 lbs of King starboard which made up the battery box as well. The biggest improvement though is I now have a nine foot long stand up center bilge that makes working in the ER way more ergonomic. Before, I would have to kneel or sit between the aft half of the engines and drives. I installed a new raised aluminum diamond plate floor to have a level, dry place to stand. I have yet to figure out how to insert pictures to forum posts or I would post some.
Having double the stand up room for ER access is so much nicer now. Next project is to tackle deep cleaning the bilge and prep for paint. I am going to clad the tops of the center engine beams with diamond plate once I take care of some surface corrosion and paint. Having the batteries 12 feet further forward should help the thruster over time and trimming at cruise, have yet to test the latter. It was an ambitious project but honestly it went pretty quickly, I only came up with the idea a week ago.
Carpe Diem

Good morning all.

I have been attempting to flush the raw water lines in the A/C system. No problem with the strainers etc, but still getting HPF issues. Filters are clean (thanks for all the input on that subject) so units are serviced.

Is there a way to flush the system in a recirculating loop or can I only fill till I see it coming out of the drain, turn it off and let it sit for 20-30 minutes? YouTube is great for general info, but I am hoping to hear from folks with the 450 Voyager and how they do this maintenance.

As always many thanks

JC

So we have not plugged into shore power for 11 days and my house bank is taking a beating. dropped it down to about 35% yesterday morning pulled anchor and figured things should charge up nicely on the 4 hour planned trip. All the other batteries start1, start2, Bthruster, Sthruster and genny are all 100% as they are essentially disconnected from the house bank.

That being said, as we started moving along I noticed my USB charger read out at 11.3v?? This is not normal while underway. I went down into the cabin and verified my SOC meter. in a minute or so, it would go from +62 amps which would be normal but then dropped to -45a or so. It kept on doing this for the next 45 minutes until I decided to start up the genny to get the shore power charger kicked on. Well this solved the issue and after about an hour or so I shut down the genny letting the alternator take over which at that point worked as they always did. I should also mention the other batteries were charging fine during the entire weird event floating around 13.9 to 14v while under way.

Another thing, I have dual 135 amp alternators, I would think with a large 435AH depleted house bank I should be charge quite a bit more than 60amps.

What happened? I am certainly at a loss. Only thing I can think of is the isolators do no like a severely low battery? Something is not right and am leaning towards the isolators. Any suggestions before I start discarding good stuff.

Are heading to a Marina today to do laundry and fill water and a much needed over night charge.

Hi,

I am considering repowering my Carver 360, it came with 2 x Yanmar Diesel Engines 6LPA-STP.
Yanmar local agent is looking for the following info


We need the boat dimension (Loa, Lwl, Bwl, draft and full load displacement).

I have tried reaching out to Marquis and Carver Yachts but understand they are no longer operating.

Can you check if anyone has the info ? I am told the info is available on the GA drawing.

Any help will be greatly appreciated !

Now that the engines are more or less sorted out, I'm on to get some electric worries overboard by replacing and upgrading the current mix of factory and afterwards installation.

I found quite a number of original cable coding on various places. The plugs here and there are marked (numbered with a marker) as well.

I also have a rudimentary wiring scheme from the manual.

What I aim to do:

replace the ground busbar(s) as these are corroded
replace the aftermarket fuse/switch panels for a face plate with rocker switches and behind it blade fuses in two units.

add some intelligence in battery and shore power monitoring

create a wiring scheme that is correct to this boat (for which I found diagrams.net quite suitable)

If interested I can post my progress on this here for others to get inspired and to ask for information on details.

My thoughts/questions for now:

AC shore power: where is the original location of the shore power plug on a 26 / 28 sedan? Mine is right in the way (pointing to the left, mounted on the right inside the rear of the cockpit) when stepping aboard through the little door aft. I have seen some mounted on the very aft pointing aft, into the air so to speak. I have some stainless covers there.

I'm considering moving this to the other side where the cooking gas box is mounted on the swimming platform. And replace it for a Euro-plug version

DC power:
is there a list to get an idea of what AWG wiring I should use? Some part of the wiring is original but I find it hard to determine what AWG is used. There aren't many different sizes used but still, using the thickest cables everywhere is also has disadvantages.

Is there any information on what was plugged where? I have the basic scheme but how it was laid out in the boat is sometimes a bit of a mistery.

Especially the flybridge is a huge mess as the meters (dials) were replaced over time, the unused wiring not cut off, lots of loose and unisolated terminals and nothing bound together or fixed.

I'd appreciate it if someone has some pictures of the wiring too, for inspiration and I'll probably recognise some constructions on my boat that are not yet clear to me at the moment.

Too damn old and weak to pull it (the anchor) up along with a ton of weeds and all the newbie boaters are taking up the docks at the park islands. No fun boating in a local cruising ground without being able to easily stop for a swim. So I have decided to install a windlass . . . but so few Riv 28s have them! And with a limited budget (as a Riv owner) I will have to install it myself.
Invited along for the journey:
- Those who have installed a windlass on their Riviera
- Those who have a windlass on their Riviera
- Those who want a windlass on their Riviera
Confession: I am a mechanical clutz who sometimes ventures beyond his ability level, and who has actually installed a Lewmar windlass on my previous boat – a 1976 Albin 25 (pics available). But the Albin has an open structure for wiring additions. The Riv is going to be difficult in that regard. And the 1980’s electrical battery setup is not appropriate for this job (2 group 27 batteries meant to handle all jobs on alternate days).
For now I am leaving this out there pending choosing an appropriate windlass and the Lewmar range is the most appealing to me – has worked for me before.
Contributions/comments eagerly welcomed! This could be a great Riv group project!

I had a no start issue on one of my 95 454xli engines. I traced voltage down to the fuel pump, but it just wasn't cycling when key moved to ON position. Sharing this as I was not able to locate much information online regarding sourcing a replacement pump.

I ordered two fuel pumps since I could not find anyone selling the original pump. I needed to be certain I would have a solution when I returned to the boat. The first was a carter P5001. This pump will work but there is only one inlet, whereas the original pump has 2 inlets. On the original, one inlet is connected to the fuel water separator outlet, and the other inlet receives return flow from the throttle body via a t-fitting. To use the carter pump you must plumb the line coming from the t-fitting to a spare inlet on the fuel water separator. This probably isnt hard to do if you have the right tools, but I did not.

The other pump I ordered was nearly a perfect fit as it had two inlets and can utilize existing fuel lines. However, the electrical connector is on the opposite side than the original pump. In order to install it in the fuel pump bracket in an orientation such that the inlet ports align with existing hard lines, you need to rotate it 180 degrees from the orientation of the original pump such that the electrical connector is facing away from the center of the engine. You can fish the wires coming from the relay around to connect without issue. I ordered this pump from the ROP shop and they were great to work with. I've put about 15 hours on the engines since I swapped the pump, and so far no issues.

https://theropshop.com/shop/products/el ... 023-556017

Well, I tried to fix my fresh water level sensor today and was entirely unsuccessful. It never reads full empty when empty to I attempted to adjust the pucs, the low level puc stopped working after about 2 turns.

Anyone ever replace one of these? How do you get it out? I tried removing the screws and they just spin.

I suspect they are all glued down and stripped out, is this common?

Any suggested replacement systems?

Thanks.

I have a 10.0BTD Westerbeke Diesel genset/generator, run in freshwater. Has about 380 hrs. I'll get some pictures up shortly. $4600 Great Lakes area.