Apologies for the duplicate post, posted in gen maintenance, probably better suited here:

Boat is a 1996 390 Express, complete closed cooling, only thing cooled by the raw water pump is the risers and heat exchanger.

Issue: Boat is running hot on the engine circulation pump side. New thermostat, admittedly some air in the system.

Boat was apart for recent valve job, did not run hot prior.

After about 5 minutes of run time the manifolds are about twice as hot as the port engine that runs properly. (Port engine manifolds are around 87 degrees, the starboard engine with the issue are around 150 degrees. Shortly thereafter the entire system heats up, and eventually overheats.

The boat does not have a cap on the heat exchanger. The highest point is the radiator cap on the thermostat housing, but there is so much flow through the housing (there is something like 5 lines connecting at that point), I can't run the boat with the cap off. I just got about a gallon and a half worth of air out of the system (replaced it with antifreeze). I'm hoping it's finally good, I have to try to run it again. I have ran it with the bleeder bolt off, until coolant came out of the heat exchanger. Is there anything else I can be doing, or anything else I can check in the meantime?

There's really only two components to the system - the heat exchanger and the circulation pump. Is there a good way to tell if one or the other is bad? Or should I just keep bleeding air out and hoping for the best?

Boat is a 1996 390 Express, complete closed cooling, only thing cooled by the raw water pump is the risers and heat exchanger.

Issue: Boat is running hot on the engine circulation pump side. New thermostat, admittedly some air in the system. Boat was apart for recent valve job, did not run hot prior.

After about 5 minutes of run time the manifolds are about twice as hot as the port engine that runs properly. (Port engine manifolds are around 87 degrees, the starboard engine with the issue are around 150 degrees. Shortly thereafter the entire system heats up, and eventually overheats.

The boat does not have a cap on the heat exchanger. The highest point is the radiator cap on the thermostat housing, but there is so much flow through the housing (there is something like 5 lines connecting at that point), I can't run the boat with the cap off. I just got about a gallon and a half worth of air out of the system (replaced it with antifreeze). I'm hoping it's finally good, I have to try to run it again. I have ran it with the bleeder bolt off, until coolant came out of the heat exchanger. Is there anything else I can be doing, or anything else I can check in the meantime?

There's really only two components to the system - the heat exchanger and the circulation pump. Is there a good way to tell if one or the other is bad? Or should I just keep bleeding air out and hoping for the best?

I recently find myself involved with a friend's boat that has a problem with the front head's shower. The shower has a single lever faucet and the shower is not receiving much hot water. All other hot water outlets on boat are fine. I can't seem to locate where to buy a mixing valve assembly (at this point my assumption is this is where the problem lies).

The other issue is how to gain access to the faucet assembly. There is no visible access from the shower. I can see some possible access points from the salon but this will require some disassembly of seating or removal of the mirror possibly.

Any input on this situation will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Hi All, I have never owned a carver but I am trying to find one. They are not easy to find in new jersey.
I am looking for a diesel aft cabin CPMY 44 feet, 2000 - 2006. I got to see one this week an real like the boat and am looking forward to cruising. If anybody knows of any for sale please let me know.
Thanks Sam
Forked River NJ

Anyone know bridge clearance on a 356 Aft Cabin. I have found some specs of waterline to bridge of 17’ 3”. I have an anchor light on the deck roof, so not sure of clearance. Guess I could measure light, but it’s a little tricky getting out on the roof, or I could take down the Bimini. If there’s a spec somewhere, much easier. Thanks

I know I’m kinda the odd-man out here at times due to the boats age and the fact we have Ford based PCM engines. So here’s my head scratcher. I picked up a decent manual vacuum pump to draw through the dipstick, when I used it I only pulled about 1.5-2 quarts out. Now the ‘76 PCM 351W has what pretty much seems to be a center sump, I read something about it that they did that so no matter what pitch/roll or plane you were on the pickup would always have oil. The tube is actually not in line with the sump though it’s closer to the front of the engine on the right side. So I’m thinking when that hose is bottoming out it’s just hitting high up in the pan and I’m really not getting it out. There’s 2 cut marks on the stick that pretty much correspond when I added back in 2 quarts 1 by 1, bottom line showed 1st quart then top line for the 2nd. HOWEVER there is another line a good inch or more higher up. Not knowing what’s actually in there I don’t want to go for broke and just overfill it to that higher line “assuming” that’s the fill line. They obviously didn’t come with the fancy drain tubes everybody has now, NOR did they come with any room to place a pan under the engine let alone get down to it…. Just wondering if anyone else has had success getting these engines fully drained with a vacuum system. My thought was to just sacrifice the 2 quarts I added, suck them out, squeeze my way down there with a shallow disposable pan, try to pull the plug and then suck out whatever ends up in the pan before trying to get it out. Then add a drain kit and not change it again until she’s hauled out for the winter!!!!
Yes I do know it works, we tried it on the neighbors 5.7 and it pulled well over 4 quarts out so I know it’s not the pump.

Anyone know where to find replacement parts for windshield wipers?

The a/c in the salon is leaking water onto the carpet. I checked the pan under the unit and the hose is not blocked to drain the condensation water. Otherwise, the unit work well. Does anyone have any ideas for the cause of the water leak?

No local HVAC companies will even take a look at the unit. "Don't' work on boats" they say.

We are new to this so here we go... New to us this spring C40. Everything surveyed fine and worked flawlessly during the couple of weeks were able to enjoy the boat when first purchased. Now we can't seem to get things to cool down below 78 degrees. The boat was maintained during our absence (8 weeks or so) including system flushes (Barnacle Buster)
Recent history, we had the boat out of the water for a couple of weeks for bottom paint and other repairs. Had HPF message in master shortly after splash down. Tech found what must have been a very clogged line (1 of 3). The other two seemed to be at full stream. After two unsuccessful Barnacle Buster flushes, an acid flush opened up #3 so all three units were flowing enough to consistently provide 78 at night and 80 degrees-ish during the day (Sarasota area day time temps 90ish).

Within a week the master unit outflow stream looked to be about half of what appeared to be full streams out of the other two. However, it kept up with the temps as stated with no HPF. Asking around I'm consistently hearing "something isn't right, you should be able to get much lower room temps even in FL. I leave the units running 100% of the time and by generator when cruising or on anchor. I was told that is necessary in FL due to the growth issues.

Today same tech says he thinks I need to replace the AC water pump as the current one seems to be not pushing enough water through the system. He supported this with stating the unit felt very hot to the touch and the impeller looked very warn. I'm a rookie but this seems plausible, yet odd that only one of the streams is showing weakness. He thought barnacles or some other debris may have made its way into the pump to cause problems. Wouldn't a weak pump essentially provide weak flow relatively equally? His response was the extra distance the water had to travel up and back to the master made it more susceptible to low flow issues. My BS meter kicked in on that one. Hope I’m wrong.

We already have some real money in the previous “fix” earlier this month and hope to get it right once and for all. Your input is greatly appreciated.

System description:
"High Velocity" System
single 8,000 BTU unit
two 9,000 BTU units
Current pump capacity is “985 GPH at 3 ft Head”

Questions for Carver-ists:
Is 78 degrees all we should expect in this heat?
Is it really necessary to run the AC 100% of time to prevent growth from getting started? Seems silly to be running the gen when cruising and we’re up top.
Is more GPH the really the answer?
Knowing more is not necessarily better, how much addition GPH do I consider upping the game if a replacement is in order?
fyi - the "fix" earlier this month included the flushes and replacement of the strainer.

Hello all,

I am starting to look at Carver Voyager in the 2000 to 2007 year models, but I am finding it difficult to tell differences between 56, 57, 56Se, 570, 53, 530 etc.

For example: If the 53' is 3' shorter then the 56' where does the 3' get squeezed from?

Any charts comparing would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance,
GFY