Recently purchased 2009 44 Sojourn and the upstairs fridge was not running on 12V power. Runs fine on 120V AC w/ shore power and/or generator.
I verified all the breakers were on and finally decided the little inverter on the back of the fridge had probably gone out (I have had this happen before on other boats). I pulled the fridge and found that the 12V wires coming off the inverter were not connected to anything. Just tied up on the back of the fridge like they were from the factory. I looked all around inside the compartment and cannot find the wires coming from the DC power panel. I opened the DC power panel and verified the breaker has a large orange wire labeled Z1 connected to it and the wire goes thru the bulkhead at he back of the power panel area. At that point I have no idea where the wire is going or how to find it. It is under the stairs going to the fly bridge and there is no access anywhere that I can see to run wires up.

Any ideas or anyone had a similar problem with Carver.

There is also no other 12V power behind the fridge so I am not sure how to even get the wire up to it at this point if I have to just run a new wire.

We own a 2013 C34 with twin Mercruisers and have spent some time in the bilge so if I can be of any help I will pipe in when I can offer a helping hand. Safe boating to all.

I have been narrowing this down and ask for more input. 1994 390CPMY. 12V start, 12V genset, 2 6V GC Batteries house. 3 bank smart charger.

I have narrowed it down to these two systems. Both are expandable.

1). Go Power! Solar Flex Solar Charging Kit 200 Watts
Rated Output: 200 Watts, 11.36 Amps, 17.5 Volt DC
Includes: (2) Solar Modules, Controller, MC4 Connectors, Mounting Hardware
Solar Panel Dimensions: 44.6" x 21.4" x 0.1" Each (2 Panels)
Item #: 202232 Brand: Go Power Model #:
GP-FLEX-200

2).Xantrex Portable Rigid Solar Panel Kit - 160 Watt
Rated Output: 160 Watt, 8.34 Amps, 19.2 Volt DC
Includes: Solar Module, Charge Controller, Battery Connectors, Legs
Open Panel Dimensions: 55.9in x 26.4in x 1.4in
Item #: 205133 Brand: Xantrex Model #:
782-0160-01
Packaged Weight: 40.00 Lbs.

Both are expandable. I would mount on the aft hardtop. I am thinking flexible are better and easier to mount on the flat surface. How did any who have these mount them? I also assume that I would send the charge cables to the controller and then the batteries (house bank) and not worry about when under power (alternators charging) or when plugged into shore power or genset running? Controller would not collide with these other charge items?

Both are around $700.00. I would probably add an extra panel to brin Xantrex up to 320 watts, and GO Power up to 400 watts. It would certainly let me run genset a lot less when at a mooring.

Thanks and I look forward to the help in advice sent.

Tony

The port gas tank on my Carver Riviera has water in it. On my last trip to the have the boat hauled out for the winter, the engine quit on me and it couldn't be restarted. When I removed the fuel filter it was full of water. The mechanic who winterized the boat installed a new filter and the engine ran for 20 minutes while he completed winterizing it, so there was no damage to the carb or the engine.
Would installing a water separating filter help? if so should this replace original filter or be added as a primary filter?

Hi All,
I went to charge my batteries the other day and found the house battery wasn't holding a charge. I didn't have time to troubleshoot but want to go back and do some testing. Test all the batteries.
I was wondering if anyone has any advice on a Battery Tester / Load Tester, multi tester units. I've been reading about all the different types. Articles mention the load testers are best used around 70 degrees ( it's about 50 to 60 degrees colder around here so that won't work), some mentioned that you can test the load with a capacity tester, some say resistance tester, etc...
I welcome any advice.
Thanks,

Hi to all members.
As new members today we are looking forward to discussing topics on the forum. We are Les and Carol registering under name of Caroltime. We have a 1995 santego with 454 crusaders and love the last 7yrs with this boat. It has been a great boat.

I have about 700 hours on the generator. Fluids, plugs, new carburetor etc were changed 2 years ago and about 100 hours.

I am wanting to replace the impeller, all the hoses, and anything else ya might suggest. I see where I can purchase the impeller and maintenance kit online. Just curious if ya had a preferred place to do business with.

Even after the mechanic in TX put the new carburetor on, the engine seems to hunt and peck as we called it back in my day. It like a Idle Control Valve is stuck on a fuel injected car engine that revs up and falls back down in rpms. Would this 10E model have such a thing on it and if not, what would cause the carburetor arm to jerk back and forth. It runs fine as long as I hold the arm, but goes back to jerking 10 second after I let go. Then at other times, it runs fine which is weird.

Thanks Gentlemen

Does anybody have a recommendation on how to remove the upper helm floor cover on 1991 Carver 33 Flybridge? I am trying to run some new wires from back of instrument panel to arch for a night light. I have included pictures of panel. Thanks in advance.

Ray

Hello, folks -
I need to replace the fume detector/bilge sniffer in my new-to-me 1988 3807 double cabin. The connectors on the new unit are different from the ones on the existing one, so will have to run a new cable from the helm console to the engine compartment. I know all wiring and control cables run from the console under a raised bridge sole through the seat to starboard of the helm seat then into an opening in the radar arch. They exit in the after starboard corner of the engine compartment. I'm sure the new cable isn't going to willingly find its way down, so there must be a way to access the "chase" to help it along - but I haven't a clue how and where to get at it. No obvious hatches, panels with mounting screws, etc. Any and all thoughts will be appreciated!

Can anyone suggest where I might be able to gat a replacement bug screen for the aft head in my 1998 355 Motor Yacht?
Thanks