So in October 2020, I made the decision to buy my first Carver a 2001 356 Aft Cabin. Being the type of guy I am I always seem to buy a project to refurbish. I guess it’s in my blood. So I purchased the boat livin the dream through a repo auction. I had a survey done and got a pretty health list of things that need to be done, but most are things I feel comfortable doing as I have been building , fabricating and restoring vehicles for years. The boat is currently in Charleston SC, and I live in Central NY. So far we have done a thorough cleaning on the boat, which included cleaning a fridge out that was full of food that has been in there for over a year(including some not so fresh lunch meat-yuk!!). We took out a 5x8 trailer full of junk. We have also prepped the boat for its trailer ride to NY in February. The bottom is getting stripped and repainted prior to the move. The other things we have to do when we get it back is new flooring, full buffing and waxing, new interior lighting, new mattresses, new bilge pumps, new air condition for the salon and hot water heater which both where already on the boat when we got it. We also need to replace some upholstery in the front birth. The engines surprisingly fired right up and transmissions shifted good during our initial inspection. They will be full serviced with fresh fluids and filters, and impellers, along with the generator. New batteries will also be installed. I am sure there will be more along the way. Once everything is done we will be renaming the boat About Time. I will post pics along the way.

[image] [/image]
[image] [/image]
[image] [/image]
[image] [/image]
[image] [/image]


After 2 days of quality time with my daughter cleaning the boat
[image] [/image]
[image] [/image]
[image] [/image]
[image] [/image]
[image] [/image]
[image] [/image]

After prepping for shipping:

[image] [/image]
[image] [/image]

More to come.

Jason

I see a lot of people call them sliding doors, but they _usually_ are actually rolling doors. And mine were awful. I didn't see exactly what I was looking for in terms of a "how-to" for fixing them. Maybe it exists and I just missed it. In any event, this is what I did in case it might help someone else in the future. I hope someone finds it useful, and I'm sorry a couple of the photos are sideways, but I can't be bothered to fix them.

First, I was told that I should be able to simply adjust the rollers via the "screw at the bottom". There are two screws at the bottom. One large external and one small internal. The screw in question is the small internal one (See Figure 1 below). Tightening this screw will lower the roller which raises the door on that side. In theory, loosening the screw lowers the door on that side. In my case, none of it seemed to do anything. Time to dig deeper.

Figure 1

Next I had to figure out how to get the doors off. I don't know if it's the best way, but the way that worked for me was to first remove the plastic strip above the doors inside the upper track. There are four screws that hold this strip in place (See Figures 2,3,4,5 below). Once the screws are removed, close the doors and pull the strip out from the side while gently bending it to allow it to stay in line with the upper track (See Figure 6). Note that the strip is not symmetrical. Screw holes are off-center so it can only go in one way. In my case, the port end of the strip was further from the stop block and the starboard end was right up against it (See Figure 7)


Figure 2


Figure 3


Figure 4


Figure 5


Figure 6


Figure 7

Ok. Doors are off. Next is to figure out why they were such a pain to open and close. Let's look into the ends caps (See Figures 8 and 9). In the top, mud wasps. In the bottom, what used to be "rollers" are now "grinders"


Figure 8


Figure 9

This looks really bad. So, cleaning out the mud wasps is easy enough. Scrape, brush, rinse. To get the rollers out, the lower end cap has to come off the door. This is where the larger of the two screws comes in. After removing the two larger screws (the ones above the adjusters) the end cap can be gently tapped away from the glass to remove it (See Figure 10)


Figure 10

In order to remove the rollers, you must first remove two small screws that are revealed after this bottom cap is removed. The screws are located at either end of the top face of the cap where it meets the rubber window seal (See Figure 11). After the screws are removed, use a screwdriver or punch or other similar tool to drive the rollers out the ends of the cap (See Figure 12). As you can see, my rollers were pretty much destroyed by corrosion (See Figures 13,14)


Figure 11


Figure 12


Figure 13


Figure 14

Now it's time to put the new rollers (See Figure 15, 16) back in. In is much easier than out because the roller housings aren't swollen from rust. They should push in easily. Be sure to loosen the adjusters fully to the stops. You may have to tap the center piece of the bracket (that the wheel is held by, and that the adjusting screw threads into) away from the outer face of the roller housing (away from the head of the adjuster screw) and press on the wheel to push it all the up to the top of its adjustment slot. My experience was that tightening the screw applied enough force to pull the center piece in and, therefore, pull the wheel down. The wheel was not willing to retract up without some "encouragement". I think the best way to do this is to set the wheels all the way up, install the rollers, install the doors and then only adjust it down as far as absolutely necessary. At this point, installation is the reverse of removal being careful to install the plastic strip the right way round.


Figure 15


Figure 16

Purchased my first Boat in October. She's a 2000 350 Mariner. Looking forward to getting out this spring. Have a lot of questions.

Alright everyone-
I need some advice.
Took the galley counters out of my 23 Montego to replace them and found the cabinets are rotten. I found where the leak came from but I am going to have to replace the cabinets. Got any ideas? I am including some pics of what they were before.

My mechanic is asking me if I want Globe Run Dry impellers in the water pumps. Has anyone used these and have an opinion? He installed some in a go fast boat three seasons ago and said they were going to change, and the old impellers looked and felt new. I know the owner he is talking about, and that guy is one of those full throttle types. I am thinking I can get multiple seasons if the impellers are what they claim they are. I did see some other users complain about them, but that was from 2011, so maybe that is old info. Thoughts? er

Hello,
We just bought a 2000 406 aft and joined this forum to look for much needed answers. We’re in Fort Myers and really excited to learn about our new boat!

Hi all,

I'm going the change all of the fuel/water separator elements. I have Crusader 454s with the separators mounted low on the engines. There are no fuel shut off valves on the gas tanks or fuel lines. Do I trust the anti-siphon valves to work or would you disconnect the fuel hoses from the tanks before removing the filters? I rather not mess with the fuel lines if I don't have to.

The generator filter is mounted high up so I don't have to worry about siphoning at that point.

Thanks,
Barry

Hi all,

Whatever fastens the swim ladder seems to be missing and I am using a bungie cord to hold the ladder closed. What was the original part that is missing? What is the best fix for this?

Thanks,
Barry

Looking for a source to supply the black rubber trim that trims the front windows on my 1996. It doesn't actually seal the glass to the fiberglass but it is a snug fit regardless. I have not yet found a profile that will work. Carver couldn't help.
Thanks!

Hello, this year we plan to upgrade our boat.

Our 1980 3326 will be getting name!!
This is our second full year and her name is:
Waltzing Matilda

With the new name, Waltzing Matilda will have two new motors!!