Any 506 or 564 all Glass...
How do you replace the wiper blade? do you stand on the metal grab bar?


Thanks guys in advance

Hello, we just bought a 1995 330 Mariner and are going to spend the next 6 months updating a few things before we move aboard this fall. She’s in pretty good condition but needs a little lovin. I’m sure we’ll be perusing a lot of posts and probably posting a few new ones as we dig in. Thanks in advance for the knowledge and wisdom!

Cheers, Ben and Rosie

Ok, I’ve been able to figure out and address most of the “previous Owner” changes but this one still has me baffled. A PO had a damn nice JL Audio stereo installed and was clearly professionally done complete with two 5ch amps, subs, and two very expensive Stinger AGM batteries cleanly wired (and fused) in parallel as its own bank so as not to pull down the others. Here’s the puzzler that I’m hoping the electricians here can explain. They ran very heavy gauge Pos and Neg cables from the Stinger batteries to the engine room to charge off the main charger (and I’m guessing alternators) but ran the Neg cable to the Neg terminal on the House battery and the Pos cable (fused at the battery) to the Pos terminal on the Port starter battery. You can see the cable and fuse in second pic. Why the split across the two charging banks/batts? I hope my drawing illustrates what I’m describing. And for additional info, the main charger is a 3 bank with 1 each to the 2 starting and 1 house batteries. Genny has its own.

I’m looking for someone who has a 350 Mariner that’s wired for 220v. If you do, could you send me a link to your wiring diagram?

I have my 350 Mariner 110v boat overseas and have been using modified tool transformers as step-down isolation transformers. It’s worked great, but my microwave is getting old and I’ll probably replace the original 24-year-old AC with a newer variable-speed 12v AC (Mabru). The Charles battery charger still works, but Charles is out of business, so I can upgrade to a newer dual-voltage version. I presently have solar 25w trickle chargers on the starter batteries.

Except for the water heater, which I don’t really need, that’s all my 110v loads.

On my last haul out, I pulled the Kohler generator since it never ran well. I’m thinking about going solar with a LiFePO4 power station like EcoFlow or Anker Solix. Victron is good but more complex and expensive for my scenario and usage pattern. The Ecoflow has an alternator DC-DC charger that can recharge the batteries while the engine is running but go idle when not, so it won’t drain the lead-acid starter batteries. Since these power stations only come in 220v versions, I’m still stuck with running them through the step-down transformer via the original generator input. I was planning to run a separate 220v loop on the boat connected directly to the power station to power local appliances like a kettle and a Nespresso.

But then I had an idea: if my 110v loads are so few and can be replaced with 220v or 12v systems, is it possible to just run the 220v through the 110v panel? The advantage of USA boats overseas is the heavy solid-core Romex electrical cables vs the stranded smaller gauge wiring used in Europe. The 110v breakers are rated at 30 amps. According to Ohm’s law, as voltage increases, the amperage decreases, but the power stays the same. I’ll still use an isolation transformer for when I occasionally use shore power. Our sailing profile is usually only day trips to local coastal waters. Overnights usually at dockside.

What do you think?


Items referenced above
https://uk.ecoflow.com/products/delta-p ... er-station
https://www.anker.com/uk/a1780?ref=1780 ... heckspecs#!
https://us.ecoflow.com/products/800w-alternator-charger

Ok. Give up. How the H E double hockey sticks do you get to the aft engine room wall to replace the light bulbs or work with any of the electrical systems? I honestly think the entire exhaust would have to come out to get to either side and that can’t be right, right? Port side has a light and both chargers with the muffler damn near touching them. Stbd has its own light and all the switches and breakers and it’s own muffler blocking too. I even figured out how to pull up the stairs but the exhaust was still in the way. PLEASE tell me there’s an access panel over it I’m missing or maybe got covered up on a re carpet?

I have a close friend, looking for a 396. If you know of any, let me know. Prefer it to be in Great Lakes area. Thanks. er

I have a 1991 Carver 3698 aft cabin. I need some help to understand the best way to clean/purge and discharge my freshwater holding tank. Thanks.

Hi all,

I recently became part of the club by purchasing a 2007 Carver 35SS. First thing that strikes me as odd - what's the dang thing called? It was advertised as a 36SS, some documentation shows it indeed as a 36SS, others show 35SS. Based on much reading, I am *fairly* convinced it is a 35SS.

Admittedly, this is my first yacht purchase (I do also own a pontoon, but those are extremely simple relative to these things) and I'd hoped to find details about the layout, controls, maintenance items, etc. for this particular boat with the simplicity of entering a VIN to a car/truck and finding every detail about the thing.

For instance, just a few days after being onboard, I noticed an increasing stench that seemed to be different from the usual "marina smells", and then suddenly started smacking me in the face when I'd come inside from being outside for a time (nose blindness reset!). My brain knows - ahh, OK. This is a dirty bilge. OK - where's that at? Additionally, I replaced the factory-included TV with a more modern 43" Roku 4k TV. Pulling the original without destroying it was a HUGE undertaking - I can't even find any forums dedicated to this boat. I did finally get it done, and fabricated my own sub-frame to attach the wall hanging mount to, and it looks and functions great! Took wayyyy longer than it needed. I did find the bilge causing the problems and got it cleaned. Whew...

OK - now the ask. First, I've sniffed around this site a bit, can't seem to locate a group/link for this boat. Second, if you DO happen to have this boat (Super Sport is NOT the same or even similar layout to Sport Sedan), do you have an owners manual or a way to get one? I have found the Sport Sedan manual, and it's only somewhat helpful.

To give back to the community, I'll share what I did! It appears the original refrigerator was replaced. However, the work done was.... ehh. Lots of cut wood left exposed. Yes, I could have got trim from Home Depot, cut to size and had lots of left over materials - AND need saws and a way to clean sawdust while on a marina. Probably not cool. Instead, I ordered some square cardboard & black velvet sticky sheets. This is amazingly effective, and gives a very polished finish look, while not having to go through the hassle of typical DIY project undertaking like I'd do in my garage at home.

*removeme*https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QRBBFP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1*removeme*
*removeme*https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TSRP7FQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1*removeme*

My 20 year old Walker Airseps are spent and I am leaning towards replacing them with the Seaboard Marine EnviroVent System. However, with that system the preferred breather port connection is on the front timing cover. However, in that location is a tachometer made by Aetna Engineering, model 8901 (see pic below). My understanding is that this tach is used as the input to the synchronizer gauge at the helm, which I never use.

So my question: has anyone else ever removed this tach, and if so, can you confirm that it is the one that feeds the synchronizer? I know there is another tach on the transmission bell housing that I am pretty certain is the one that feeds the main tachometers, so those should not be impacted.

I would just disconnect it and fire up the engines to test it myself, but we are on the hard right now doing a bottom job, compounding/polishing the hull, aftercooler/HX cleaning and other misc projects. As such, starting the engines is not an option.

Thanks in advance for any help!
Kyle

My 1995 440 aft cabin has two 50A power inlets. When I bought the boat it came with two long 50A cords which then go into a splitter, and I plug this splitter into a single 50A shore outlet. This has worked fine so I don't think I really have the need to plug into two 50A shore outlets.

We're cruising so each marina is different, but I was thinking about buying an extension since there have been a few times our cords wouldn't reach. Since we normally use only a single 50A outlet, is there a problem with buying a single long 50A cord and have a splitter on the boat end instead of on the shore power end? This would be much easier to deal with instead of hassling with two long 50A cords. Depending on the length I was thinking I could have a single 50A extension just in case.