Hi members! Just winterized our boat, did all the ususal stuff, removed all 7 batteries. There was one, which I'm not sure what it does, It has, from the factory wiring saying "xtra battery". Anyone know what this is used for. Don't believe it is for the house system. Thanks.

New to my 3207 and am wondering where the aft bilge pump is located and how I might gain access to it? I am not sure how old it is or if it is functioning. I will be bubbling in this winter season and would like to replace it.

Thanks in advance!

Up for sale is a Towdster V towing device. I used this 3- 4 imes and it's in pretty good condition, maybe few scuffs/marks on the vinyl.

I was able to tow my waverunner with this, backup for anchoring and all it it worked great. I attached the ends with the rope to my cleats on swim platform. On the other I put the two shackles together and used a rope with a hockey puck. I drilled a hole through the hockey puck and put a knot on the line on the boat side then fed the line between the two shackles. This allowed me to tow on plane or at idle, I would just let the line out and the knot (stopped by hockey puck and hockey puck stopped by shackles) was adjusted to place the waverunner on the V of the wake. Ask if you have questions...

I also have a spare tension rope (internal to the tube I had purchased as a spare) that I never used and will include.

I paid $399 for this. $250 plus shipping.

The wood inside of our boat is starting to mildew. When we leave for the weekend we have been leaving several windows slightly opened. It’s almost time to close her up for the winter. My question is what’s the best way to wash down the walls and what’s the best way to restore the wood without growing more mildew?
Thanks!

Have a 1995 440 and it has a nautical structures crane rated for 1000 pounds. Anyone with any experience with this. It has to be swiveled manually. We have a dinghy weighing about 250 pounds but are upgrading to a unit that will weigh about 600 pounds. We would like to put it on the top deck with the existing crane. Is that dooable?

My wife and i are brand new owners of a 1988 Carver 3807 and ecstatic about owning our first large boat. We have had several trailerable boats and PWCs, but this is a first for a larger one. Last weekend was our first time to spend the night and noticed that most everything worked, just light cleaning and vacuuming . The spot light will turn on and tries to move but doesn't. Only issue that concerns us is that when idling as in attempting to put it in the slip is that if not moving for a spell, the CO2 alarm mounted in the lower helm will go off. When underway, no alarms, only when sitting still. Additionally, after our first cruise for a couple of hours, we noticed that our clothes inside the cabin smelled of exhaust. Really didnt notice till we got home. Not a gas smell, just exhaust. We kept all the doors closed, except several trips to adjust the volume on the stereo. Additionally, the previous owner said he never used shore water. He only used the potable tank and pump. When i hook up a hose, do i need to get a pressure regulator. The manual seems to think there is one built in, but if haven't really looked. Any advice on what to do and not to do would be great. I've always winterized my stuff at home, but all the dock people seem to use bilge heaters and pretty much leave engine blocks and the like without antifreeze. I'm in north Alabama and it does get cold, but we rarely get snow. BRING ON THE ADVICE ABOUT ANYTHING!!! IT WILL BE APPRECIATED

So I'm having some issues with my forward head. It's a Crown vintage 1995. Electric macerator style.

When I bought the boat it had very little water flow when flushing. I figured I would buy a rebuild kit and put a new impeller in along with some new gaskets. I did this, and now I have even less water flow.(Before the impeller change you could barely see water even if you ran the head for 20 seconds, but there was a little) I traced the supply water line and found that it taps in BEFORE the water pump for the entire boat.

It seems weird to me that that little impeller would be able to suck water from under the bed, all the way up to the bow of the boat.

Here's another facet to my issues. I notice that randomly I get a couple inches of clean water in my forward bilge. Not enough to trip the bilge pump, but water none the less. The shower/AC sump is working well and that box never fills up, so I know it's not that water. I've been looking for leaks in the water lines, but not seeing anything. We also get air in the water lines for a long time after sitting. The faucets spit and sputter for awhile even on city water. Knowing how the head is plumbed I would think this is caused by the head being plumbed in front of the pump and that water line being empty. (because the impeller can't seem to pull that far)

So here's my question. Can I tap the water line to the head in AFTER the pump so the water pump supplies the water pressure and the impeller just helps move it along?

Is there a good way to pressure test my water system? For the record I leave the pump on all the time on weekends and I don't ever hear the pump randomly kick on. I'm thinking my forward bilge water somehow is tied to the head feed line. I was thinking I could disconnect both ends of the head feed line and apply air to it, but is there some gauge I can buy to do this?

I'm not opposed to buying a new head if I need to, in fact we've been leaning that way because these Crown heads are pretty dated, but first I'd need to make sure I can get water to the front head reliably.

FWIW I did call Carver and got the water line drawings for the boat. They are pretty generic and don't align with how mine is set up. It shows the feed line for the head go along the outside of the boat and mine runs right up the middle and is very clearly factory and matches the rear head plumbing. (white sanitary lines buried in sealant when it passes through a bulkhead).

Hi all, it's been suggested I use on e during the upcoming cooler weather season. Just not sure what or where to look for. One brand suggestion (unsure of correct spelling) is polnex?

Any ideas on where to find or other safe brands/models for keeping heat in the engine/bilge Compartment?

Thanks
Mark

So I wasn't able to find a solution in the post I searched.
Hopefully my 405 and 406 buddies can assist.

I replaced all 3 bilges, both bilge blowers and the float switches 2 months ago. Unfortunately, I thought going with a bigger pump was better not understanding the electrical side based on some of the post I read.

So I replaced all my 1500gph Rule Bilges with 2000gph Rule Bilges. Could something this small make my fwd breaker throw?

So here is my problem. The fwd bilge will not empty without throwing the red breaker under the bottom stair and the top black breaker above the dining table in the galley. I must manually turn the fwd switch on at the helm, then reset both switches numerous times to get the water to drain. Once the water gets down where you can hear the sucking noise. The breaker quits tripping and will finish emptying the water.

I really dont know where to start on this one.

Thanks

The aft deck hard top has 2-4" access panels and I was wondering if any one has found any good 4" speakers that will fit into these already existing openings and if so were you able to run speaker wire to the bridge to tap into the speakers there or did you go to the aft cabin speaker(s) and was it a PITA or an easy speaker run, possible winter project!