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View the latest post 57 Carver salon window replacement
- Posted by: onaprwl » August 2nd, 2018, 2:17 pm
- Forum: Carver Yachts Forum - Model Discussion
Has anyone had to replace a window in a 57 carver salon, if so where did you get your replacement from?
Views: 1984 • Comments: 3 • Write comments
View the latest post 1992 26 command bridge
- Posted by: carlwest » August 1st, 2018, 11:02 am
- Forum: Introduce Yourself!
Hello, new owner of 26 Command Bridge. Looking for any helpful hints from like owners. Thanks
Views: 2790 • Comments: 6 • Write comments
View the latest post Attachment(s) 1998 Props on 405
- Posted by: Serendipity » July 31st, 2018, 6:38 pm
- Forum: General Boating Discussion
I was wondering what seems to be consensus on the MW 22/21 standard props regarding pitch.
I am looking for more speed. My engines are maxing out at 3600 rpms and I was just wondering if changing the pitch as suggested by my mechanic will make that much of a difference. Boat will be in fresh water.
Any suggestions very much appreciated
Views: 9554 • Comments: 29 • Write comments
View the latest post Replacing Thermostat on 330 6BTA
- Posted by: VolNavy91 » July 31st, 2018, 10:52 am
- Forum: Diesel Engines/Transmissions
Still learning the ins and outs of diesel maintenance on my 400. Question, I think the process to replace the thermostat on my starboard engine (its getting stubborn about opening, runs up to 200F before opening sometimes) is pretty straight forward. My question is this - how much coolant do I need to drain off before I start? I saw a great step by step illustrated example on another site of the process but it didn't even mention draining coolant. Look forward to hearing your advise.
Views: 2696 • Comments: 3 • Write comments
View the latest post Attachment(s) Tips or tricks to getting sediment out of the gas tank...
- Posted by: 390Express » July 30th, 2018, 1:07 pm
- Forum: Gas Engines/Transmissions
I've drained my starboard tank twice now, gas looks good when I drain it. I've been draining it right from the rubber line that attaches to my Oberg fuel filter, so it should be the same gas that the fuel filter is getting, but when I clean the filter and run it, I only get about 2-3 minutes of run time out of it before the filter is clogged again.
The supply line failed, and gelled shut. The return line was always open and looked good, but it had a small amount of the gel like substance (the substance you get when separated ethanol reacts with rubber fuel line) in the hose. I'm wondering if my return line failed and is deteriorating, thereby introducing sediment back into the tank, and causing my issue. I'm going to replace both return lines this week. They're about $40 each, it's a fairly cheap investment.
This is maddening. I've drained my starboard tank twice, and my port tank once. Still bad gas. The gas is now clean, smells right, and its useable when I drain it, but has a lot of sediment clogging material, only when its ran through the boat. Ran out of the boat it looks great and I dump it right into my truck.
I've also considered hooking a pump up to the motor, and running a continuous loop from the supply line, to the pump, to a filter, to the return line, and letting the gas cycle through a filter for 20-30 min. intervals.
The other option is to nix the Oberg fuel filter, and replace it with a can style filter that can hold more sediment.
I never thought that getting bad gas out of the tanks would be the single hardest part about getting this boat right. Everything else runs well. (Aside from erratic idle on the port motor, but I can't diagnose that, until I'm sure that the gas is right.)
Views: 7970 • Comments: 18 • Write comments [ Read all ]
View the latest post courtesy lights
- Posted by: hoffmann22 » July 30th, 2018, 11:32 am
- Forum: Introduce Yourself!
What breaker must be on for these to work. '93 Express- bought used
Views: 1688 • Comments: 2 • Write comments
View the latest post Attachment(s) Courtesy light 1997 355
- Posted by: tgmkwill » July 30th, 2018, 10:21 am
- Forum: Electrical
1997 355 aft cabin. I need to replace the courtesy light that is near the sliding entrance door to right as you try to get inside the boat. I took the small plastic grill off, the gray circular part that holds the bulb will not pull out to get the wires behind the bulb. I want replace the entire courtesy light fixture. I tugged on it with needle nose pliers and noticed the fixture is very heavily caulked from the INSIDE preventing the fixture from sliding out like the other fixtures door of the same style that are inside the salon.
Tugging fairly hard on the fixture it only moves it out about 1 cm, as soon as I let go it snaps back into the hole.
Before I use the "just grip it and rip" technique, just seeing if I am missing an easy access to the backside of where the light is attached. I want to replace the light fixture, so it does not matter if it breaks. Just wondering if any other wires are is behind it before I do this. Don't won't to make a bigger problem.
I can't believe I had to type 3 paragraphs about a small little light. That's a boat for you .
Thanks.
Views: 6302 • Comments: 18 • Write comments [ Read all ]
View the latest post Hurth 630 Transmission
- Posted by: staticman4414 » July 29th, 2018, 10:39 pm
- Forum: Gas Engines/Transmissions
So I have Crusader 5.7L engine, and a Hurth 630 transmission , but the engines are mounted "backwards" So the flywheel is towards the front-Bow of the boat. But when I look at pictures online of the transmission, I see the output shaft is on the opposite side of input shaft. My questions is, I have no idea what turns this back around to connect to the prop shaft since the engine and transmission output would face the bow of the boat? I assume there is another gear box of some type for the v-drive? I am not near the boat right now, but just trying to research all of this. Even when I have been at the boat I was not looking for this answer, but I have no idea where this extra gear box would be, as I don't think there is any room. I have never checked my prop shaft seals, as I can't even see them. I am trying to learn about all this so I can do maintenance and look into a clunking drive on my port side drive system. It works, but makes a steady clunking when in forward gear. It didn't do this when I test drove the boat, but the prior owner hit the that side prop on the trailer when it was putting it on the trailer before I bought it. I didn't notice it till I took the boat off the trailer and noticed the wood was cut into, and it was not like that before I bought it. Does anyone have any addition information on what I should have or what brand it might be. I even have the cut sheet from the manufacture, and it only lists the hurth 630 transmission.
Thanks,
Joe
Views: 1849 • Comments: 3 • Write comments [ Read all ]
View the latest post Carver 33 Aft Vertical Draft with Radar Arch
- Posted by: DistinctivelyLost » July 29th, 2018, 2:08 pm
- Forum: Carver Yachts Forum - Model Discussion
Hey Everyone,
By any chance does someone have a really really accurate vertical draft for a 1991 Carver 33 Aft? It has the radar arch and hardtop.
I'm planning a trip down the western Erie canal and am not any where near the boat right now to measure it. Western Erie has a bridge at 15' 7" and specs on the 33 Aft say 15' 0" with optional canvas, however, it doesn't say whether this is with the optional radar arch too...
Any information would be appreciated.
Thanks
-Matt
Views: 1190 • Comments: 0 • Write comments
View the latest post Attachment(s) Which bilge pump switch?
- Posted by: CptBacardi » July 29th, 2018, 11:38 am
- Forum: Electronics & Navigation
Hi! I’m having trouble determining which toggle switch I need. These are my bilge pump switches, they have lighted tips, and two positions for auto and continuos. Continuos is direct power and auto is for the float switch. Is that an On-On switch instead of On-Off? Can anyone link me to what works? Thanks!
Views: 13589 • Comments: 28 • Write comments
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