I got a head start on the port motors, per the headache I had with the starboard side. I preemptively rebuilt the TBI, and replaced the Oberg fuel filter and top filter right out the gate, to dismiss those issues. I like both motors on the same maintenance schedules, so I rebuilt the starters, alternators, and TBIs all at the same time, this year.

I thought I was having the same issue with the fuel pump as the starboard motor, but it's not getting any juice when I turn the port ignition breaker to "on." (the starboard motor fuel pump kicks on for 1-2 seconds when I flip the switch, as it should) I thought it may be a bad fuel pump relay or an interruptor from some sort of sending unit somewhere, so I bypassed everything and ran a hot to the fuel pump. Pump works fine, perfect fuel pressure. Next I noticed that I don't have any spark, then tested the fuel injectors with an LED indicator light that plugs into them, no fire their either. Starter has power, and turns over at the helm. Shouldn't have anything to do with the neutral safety switch. No power to anything else.

I have both batteries installed on the #2 bank, and no batteries installed in the #1 bank, but that shouldn't matter. I had the battery selector switch to "both" and the motor turns over at the helm. There are no loose "accessory" wires left to connect to the batteries. I did a quick check for loose or dangling wires and didn't see anything. The motor/ignition breaker isn't tripped. The wiring harness has a round connector that goes to the 16 pin for the ECU. I'm guessing the round connector is the same style 9 pin connector that Merc uses. I haven't messed with it yet. I have a good running motor on the starboard side, and I will likely try swapping computers at some point tomorrow. However, I would like to know if there's anything else I should look for, and a basic wiring diagram that gets me power to the ECU, that tells me which pin or pins on both the 9 pin, and the 16 pin that should have power. I would like to make sure that the computer is receiving power, before I waste time trying to swap them. (I don't believe it is, and I hope it's not... the much easier and cheaper fix is wiring, or sensors, vs ECU replacement)

Another issue that I'm having, which may or may not be related:

When I turn on the ignition switch on the panel for the starboard motor, I get no warnings at the panel or at the dash, and the motor starts with no issue at the helm or by jumping the starter.

When I turn on the ignition switch on the panel for the port motor, I get no warning at the panel, but I do get a "V-Drive" warning light at the helm. I disconnected the green wire on the only electrical connection that I saw on the V-Drive, and the light turned off. Still no power to the fuel pump or to the port motor. I tried jumping out whatever sensor or switch that is by connecting the two wires together, and still no power. The fault light on the dash turns off when I disconnect the green wire, or touch the two wires together, but neither scenario changes my power situation to the port motor. What does the sensor on the V-Drive sense? (temp?, oil level?) The oil in the V-Drive is a little milky, but it's full. The sensor doesn't seem to be any faults triggered from anything to do with the transmissions. Messing with the sensor on the V-Drive turned the fault light off.

Hi All,
Back with another never ending problem. Took it out Saturday. All was sounding great. All indicators were good (engine temp, oil pressure) on both engines. After about, maybe 30 minutes, I noticed starboard side, oil pressure dropped from 1/2 indicator to 1/4 indicator. Everything still sounded fine and functioned fine, so I returned back to dock to not do any damage in case there was some serious problem. I was not sure if it was just the dash board display. But got side tracked and did not restart the engine after docking to see if it would pop back to normal. Anyway, then I proceeded to change oil on both engines, as it was on add mark. yes I had neglected changing timely matter and checking. after changing oil and filter (correct oil and filter as recommended by mercruiser ), I started the starboard engine, at least attempted. nothing happened. did not turn over. when i listened i the engine room, there was a wining, ticking noise. after a friend of mine checked around, notice sound and vibration was coming from, i believe fuel pump. see picture attached. I had the fuel pump replaced 8/2016. did not put that much time between than and now, so not excessive used, I suspected oil pump, or oil pressure switch or something. I will talk to my mechanic tomorrow, but any ideas from anyone here, what it may be. by the way port engine, oil change was success, all worked, and that's my usual troubled engine. thanks in advance for your input. also this is a mercruiser 7.4 mpi. 200 model.

Thought some of you here would like to see the weird looking travel lift we have at my former marina and where I store the boat for winter. I do believe this is a one of a kind. Gas engine which operates the hydraulic drives and rams. shorten, widen, the vertical legs can be moved up or down as well as vertical travel on each wheel section. Different from the normal variety is this is purpose built for launching on a ramp.

Backed under boat adjusting the slings,



Off the blocks and ready to roll



On the way to the ramp



A few photos by the staff



Backing down the ramp



Picture of a sail boat once the rig is in the water.

What is the approximate coolant capacity of a closed coolant system? Mine was drained for storage/winterization, and I have to refill it. Research says 33 quarts, but that seems like a ton. Is that correct? Can any quality 50/50 mix be used?

I read the operation and maintenance manual, but it talks more about how to flush the system, than it does about what product to use, or how much goes into the system.

I have read that rudders aren't supposed to be exactly parallel, and that one should be towed "in" a little. Mine aren't perfectly parallel, but one is towed "out" a bit.

Should this be corrected before launch? Boat is a 1996, 390 Express, if that matters.

Hi all...first time forum user so please forgive the obvious newbie feel to my post. I have had many boats so I’m not new to cruisers. I am looking at Mariners anywhere from 2000 to 2007 and realize the differences after 2003. Found a 2003 which is bare bones but could have extras added to satisfy me. It’s the perfect model to fit in the river in front of my Ontario home (3 foot draft, lower bridge height, easy access everywhere etc). My questions for anyone that could comment are:
It has mercury 6.2 engines as opposed to crusaders...most online reviews prefer crusaders by a long shot. Anyone out there with the Mercs that could speak to them?
Has anyone ever added auto pilot at a later stage? I hear it’s almost impossible but would love to know if that is incorrect!
If I add a Raymarine sat dome in the USA and take a Canadian Direct TV box down there will it work there as well as in Canada when I eventually bring it to Ontario?
Any and all comments that would assist in my choice would be welcome...btw...I like the appearance of the Mariner so I am immune to negativity about the lines

Thanks a lot for any answers
“No Way Jose”

Hi guys

Ive seen from new Carver did drop in storage trays for the engine hatch access doors on the outvside deck area.
Any idea where i can get them now ?

Thanks Peter

I’m in the process of replacing the hot water heater on my 1996 355 Aft Cabin. I have an identical 11 gal tank with the heat exchanger at the rear ready to swap out. Turns out getting the old one out was a nightmare. Ultimately had to disassemble the old unit and remove the outer skin then inch out the insulation and tank. I see no way the replacement unit is going into the access hole under the table. I’ve ordered a 6 gal unit though I’m concerned that that unit isn’t much smaller.
Thoughts???

Looking for some good advice to give me a little more insight on getting my Norcold DE0051 running.

I have download and began to test things according to Norcold troubleshooting guide.
The refrigerator is about 10 years old and hardly used by previous owner.

It is 12v /120 volt but I have really only been testing on 120.

The “good tests”
My green light is on when I turn dial on.
Looks like I have decent power coming out of the 120 power module, sending over around 43v (from my memory) to the 12v power module.
Thermistor is reading around 1.5 k ohms which seems ok for 94’f in my garage.

The bad or quirky tests / results
1- in Step 2 in the main flow chart is about checking TP1 and TP2 for voltage. It’s says to refer to pic 1 which shows read, black, and brown points on the 12v power module board. Is it that the red and black need test3d? I can’t get a reading on those. Or is it that on the other side of the board where there are two connectors labeled TP1 and TP2? When I test then, they seem that they are the wiring for 12 v power out (from my memory) And they start at 1v but the keep increasing slowly to 11 volt. Even the 12v power in lead wiring are getting that increasing voltage the same while no 12 v power source is connected.

2- When I try to get a reading on the compressor for voltage, it’s not the same as pictured in the guide. I think that they want you to simply test the positive and nuetral lines at the compressor, right? I am only getting around 11 v and I think you should have more, right? Like 15 v min? When the refer to points a and b on the compressor, they are simply meaning the positive and negative connections, right?

Need to replace the horn on '94 440. Does anyone have one for sale? Anyone know brand and/or part number?