Hello, All three of my AIr Condition units will not work. I have tripple checked everything. The CB are all good, boat has AC power on both lines. All other AC systems are working.

The AC units will not show anything on thermostat control units when power is selected. It appears as though they have no power to them. It has to be something in the power supply as all units are independent except for the water pump system?

Hello everyone! I am a brand new owner of a 1989 25' Carver Montego. It's a little bit old but in very good shape. My wife surprised me with it. This is my first boat and it is quite overwhelming. I have it in the marina and am hooked to ship to shore power but my cabin battery died. I can't figure out why it isn't charging. The battery was new last year and so was the charger. I think it is something simple on my part. If anyone out there has the same boat I would appreciate any help and suggestions I can get.

We just purchased an '88 3207 aft. Wow. She is a fixer-upper. Good bones though. We are looking to affordably replace all of the cracked portlights. I have read some older posts. Any new ideas?

The original mattresses on board were rather uncomfortable and my wife was not to keen on sleeping in a bed which someone else had used for 10 years. They were also heavy (coil spring) and made bed making cumbersome. Finally got around to changing both the master and guest mattresses. Problem here is they are shaped rather strange so customization was required. Decided to go with an Ikea mattress as the quality is outstanding and the price is right. We were able to lay down on several models and choose what we liked. We did ask around for "professional" mattress but the bottom line is they give you a chunk of foam cut to size to the tune of $1000 for something you may not be comfortable on.

Required a Queen size to fit the master. The guest required a king and even this was not big enough due to the weird bow shape/fitted design. Luckily the waste after the cut was big enough to glue the missing piece into place creating an identically sized copy of the original. Used a spray adhesive made for foam which worked perfectly. The bow mattress (guest) also had angles on both side to fit the hull shape so this one was trickier than the master.

Laid the old mattress on top of the new and traced out the pattern with a marker. Checked out youtube and found the recommended way of cutting the foam was with an electric carving knife which also worked well. The Morgedal mattress we chose has a zipped on cover which was removed, modified/sewn to fit the new cut mattress shape. https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/40272211/

Picture of the Guest mattress which was the complicated one, Master is the same but a different shape. Very pleased with the results.

I am trying to find the weight rating for cradle on the flybridge. I currently have a dinghy that weighs 500 pounds and looking at a new one that is 680 pounds (total weight including fuel)
Thanks

On the 41CMY the exhaust mostly exits through the hull under the boat around mid section. I say mostly because there is an additional 2" exhaust outlet on each side at the rear of the boat above the water line which I assume are there for a no back pressure outlet. There are fibreglass deflectors added in this area to divert the exhaust towards the rear as opposed to coming up the sides and also make for a smooth flow while under way. Problem here is when the boat is picked up with a hydraulic trailer the pads can and will come into contact with them causing damage if you do not warn the driver about the obstruction. This damage was there when I purchased the boat and finally decided last week to repair before launch. Not that it mattered all that much but it was unsightly and bothered me.

Here you can see the deflector and damage.



8"+ exhaust hole, no restriction here!



With a piece of cardboard I traced out the part required and cut the new part out from 1/16" stainless plate. Some 5200, a few stainless through bolts with nylock nuts and washers to secure and the job is done. Very content with the results, looks even better after I repainted the entire bottom as can be sort of seen in the last picture if your eyesight is 20/20.



Ready for launching next week.

Hey Folks,
I would like to re-bed the forward stateroom hatch. My fiberglass guy ran a moisture meter on the deck and determined that I am likely getting water intrusion via the hatch.
Can you please give me any advise and insight on the removal and rebedding process?
Below deck, above the berth, there is a screen/shade retractable (forward-aft) devise. Should this be removed before proceeding? How is that accomplished as it looks like a finished product.
Per Carver, I am going to use 3M 4000 UV sealant. (I just finished rebedding the deck hardware).
All thoughts are very much appreciated.
Thanks

Starboard trans clunks into gear forward and reverse. Trans is quiet when running. Thoughts?

I’m about to install a new Depth-Sounder/Fish-Finder in my 26 Santa Cruz. Currently there is an old Apelco Fish-Finder with a transom mounted transducer and an older Lowrance depth sounder with two units, bridge and lower helm.

I’d like to install my new transducer inside the hull, but am rather unsure where to locate it. I’m hoping someone with the same boat, or one with a similar hull shape has some advice.

My options are:

1/ Under forward floor panel, which is roughly 1/3 of the boat length back from the bow. The Lowrance transducer was mounted there, but does lose lock from time to time when cruising around 12 mph. So maybe there’s some bubbles from the chines as the bow rises.

2/ Under the rear floor panel which is where I’d like to try it.

3/ In the engine compartment, which will be awkward to install.

4/ Transom mount, which will require a cable extender and barnacles/mussels do seem to like to call it home.

I’m looking for some general advice. I can move it around a bit on/in a plastic bag full of water to see how it works to pinpoint the final best place to epoxy it down.

Any thoughts?



Ps: Some tidbits of other information

1/ The old Apelco unit failed due to display issues. One of the ribbon cables feeding the LCD has deteriorated over time and can’t be repaired. The nice feature was it displayed speed as the transducer had a paddlewheel, although it did foul from marine growth mid-season.

2/ My new Lowrance unit will display speed, but only from a NMEA device, in other words GPS. But’s that’s fine as I am finally installing a Chart Recorder which can do that, however as both will be located very close together, I can always read speed on the Chart Recorder without making the NMEA connection.

3/ The cable for my new Lowrance Depth-Sounder is a few feet too short to reach from the bridge to the transom and an extender cable is require. It adds considerably to the cost, is way longer than I need, and the mid-cable connection point has some risk of failure, (although not much).

4/ I did call Lowrance on using the transducer to shoot though the hull and they said the only problem was some signal attenuation, so that it might not work at it’s maximum specified depth (approx. 900 to 1000 ft), but that should be fine as I’m generally in water under 100 feet and certainly not over 150 feet.

I have a 1996 Crusader XL, 454, 350hp motor that has been out of service for a year and half. The boat had ethanol separation, and the ethanol reacted with the rubber gas line, turning it into a jello like substance. I replaced the gas line, and cleaned out as much of the fuel system as possible. There is no "hard" gas left in any of the lines, and it has all new fuel.

When I first put in the batteries, turned on the main breaker, and turned the "ignition" switch on the panel to "on," I thought I heard the fuel pump kick on. I thought that I have heard the fuel pump kick on during subsequent flicks of the same switch of the ignition breaker, but at this point, I'm not convinced.

Yesterday I completed the install of the new fuel lines, primed the main line that goes to the Oberg fuel filter, turned the ignition switch on, and attempted to check for fuel pressure. The system had some residual pressure (3-5psi), as the shrader valve shot a bit of air out of it and small spirts of fuel initially, then nothing. I don't know if it's possible that this pressure could have been in the system for 1.5 years, or if it was newer pressure built up from prior putting power to the ignition/pump. While I did prime the feed side of the Oberg fuel filter, I did not prime the output side, which feeds the fuel pump. That was the last bit of rubber line that could have been clogged, but yesterday I removed the pump and checked that line, and it's fine. When I started investigating the issue yesterday, I thought that either 1) the fuel line feeding the pump was clogged, or 2) the pump was bad. Neither of those issues turned out to be the case. The feed line did have a small amount of fuel in it, it's now in my bilge. Also, the fuel pump had a decent amount of gas in it, at least 1/2 a pint, maybe more. After I removed the pump and hooked it to a battery, it all shot out. The pump seems fine.

There is a red wire with a black stripe and a black wire that goes to the pump. On top of the motor, there is a red wire with a black stripe and a black wire that goes to a connector, and that connector is connected to nothing. I don't see anywhere that it is possible to plug it in. (pic attached) Could the pump have no power? Does the ECU control the fuel pump in any way? (wondering if the ECU is bad) I will bring a multimeter with me today to check continuity of the open connector to see if it's the same line. Both lines run through that plastic material, and it's taped up to a "T" that later feeds the TBI and more.

If it matters, the ECU is the MEFI 1/2 style, but Crusader brand. I believe they're both "Delphi" computers. I'll check for spark today (another indication that the ECU is good, or bad), and run a continuity check on the fuel pump wiring. Any other tips or tricks?

Thanks in advance for any advice!