There are only a few things that make us go back to port and one of them is running out of fresh water. Not so much so because we have no water since our water is almost drinking water but because the heads will not flush without water in the potable water tank. That being said, the heads take their water from the potable water tank pressurized supply and I would like to draw from the lake instead. I do have my washdown pump which already gives me this feature so basically rerouting the head water intake line to the washdown line sounds like a simple solution right? Anyone see any issues by doing this except that the washdown breaker needs to be on when using the head?

This project has been in my head for several years but never got around to implementing it. Basically I would like to fill my potable water tank with the hose that is already connected to the city water supply when at dock as opposed to a hose into the filler hole.

Using a solenoid, a float switch, a momentary push button activation switch and a timer it is pretty much failsafe. Install a small float switch like this in the top of the tank. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Sale-White ... %7Ciid%3A1 This will automatically shut the solenoid valve https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-NPT-12V-DC ... 2749.l2649 off when the tank gets almost full. Add a timer into the same circuit as the float switch/solenoid and set to appropriate time interval (15 minutes?) https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-24V-LED- ... %7Ciid%3A1 this cuts off the supply if the float switch fails. Install a momentary push button switch which activates the solenoid. https://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-Anti-Vand ... SwZVlXqas3


How it works. When connected to city water and you want to fill your tank. Push the momentary button you installed which activates the timer which is connected to turn on the solenoid until the float switch cuts the circuit off and shuts off the water supply filling the tank. If the float fails for whatever reason (highly unlikely as I have these same floats in several aquariums that have been running for many years without failure) the timer will run out and shut off the solenoid after the predetermined max run time you set it to.

Possible vent issue which could cause tank expansion. Add a vent or simply open the fill port for air expansion when in use. Technically the vent is 5/8" and the water feed line is only 1/2" so there should not be a problem however we all know vents will plug with time so an additional vent or tee off from the existing vent would not be a bad idea if not using the opening fill port for air displacement.

Oh boy, another project but hey, this is part of boating fun for me. Love this stuff.

I have noticed a small drip that started under my transmission. It's a 2000 350 Mariner and no idea what the V drives are and haven't worked on these things before. Anyone know if these are hard to work on? Could it be a gasket? Any help is appreciated.

As it shows in my profile I have a 1981 Carver 3007 Aft Cabin. It is powered by twin 270 Crusaders. Both engines are still powered by the original points/plugs ignition system. I am contemplating conversion over to an electronic system.

If I make the conversion what kinds of performance enhancements may I realize. Reason for considering this is a friend of mine who has a 37" Chris Craft Commander converted his over in 2017. In August we hold our I-LYA Powerboat Regatta at Put in Bay Ohio. I chair an event called the Flying Mile.

In simple terms you open your boat up to WOT and we measure your top speed with a radar gun. In 2016 with his old points system he ran 23 MPH top end. Last year he ran 29 MPH. After the event I asked him what he did to make his boat 6 MPH faster. He said the only thing he did was convert to electronic ignition. He says his boat performs much better. Is a little bit better on fuel and of course the increase in top end speed.

If I make the conversion too, and I am seriously considering it what performance enhancements could I expect to receive in return? Just curious. I am looking at a $1200 cost to convert.

Finally the weather here reached a point where I could start to prep for my launch. I spent yesterday cutting off the shrinkwrap, putting up the bimini and getting my cockpit cover on. My boat is a bit closer to a launch date. I want to get the hullsides waxed then put her in the water.

Hoping to get the hull done next week and launch shortly thereafter. Being that it was a nice Thursday I was among several other hopeful boat owners working and prepping for launch. The weather window looks pretty good for the next several days.

Getting anxious and wanting to get into the water.

Hello all-

I want to install drain plug LED underwater lights on my carver 356.

What size are the holes and how many? Also if there is only 1 drain plug is there some kind of hold you can install to mount 3 to?? Thanks in advance!!

We own a 1995 model 440. On the forward wall of the aft stateroom inside the starboard hanging locker there is a small DC electric panel with the house battery switch. In this panel there is a "push-on/push-off" type circuit breaker labeled "Remote Lights". This is mentioned nowhere in the owners manual, and does not appear on the DC wiring schematic in the owner's manual. We believe it was an option allowing a radio transmitter type of "key fob" remote timer activation of the clamshell light on top step of the saloon entry (and possibly also the overhead hardtop aft deck lights). My question is: Where inside the vessel is the receiver located??? The receiver is malfunctioning and randomly turning on the light (which then times off). Appreciate any insight. Blair Bugher-AMS, Bugher Marine Services

1) So I just completed servicing the top part of my new to me Maxwell Freedom 800 on my 2003 Carver 366. Sadly it had been neglected & the pressure arm had been completely eroded away with just the stub of it left. I got a small kit that had a new pressure arm plus the little wire clip, but on mine, it looks like where the short end of the clip fits into a fitting on the case, that fitting has also been worn away. In the instructions in the manual, it notes: " insert a new insulator tube and pressure arm clip".
So I have the new clip, but nowhere do I see anything that corresponds to where an " insulator tube" would fit, nor do I see it included in the Maxwell service kit.
I have the photos & enlarged them but they don't show where this would fit.
Anyone know anything about where, how this is done?

2) I also want to service the bottom part ( gearbox ) because I can see some oil on the outside bottom of the shaft. From what I see in the manual, that it's fairly simple, to disassemble, And that you re-assemble it and then insert the "key" but I can't see what holds the key in place. I'd like to understand this before I take it to pieces.

Any help appreciated.

Thank god it's boating season!!!

Need some help here from the electrical pro's

I upgraded my house bank with 4x 6v trojan t-105's. wired in parallel and series for 450ah @ 12v. This would be battery #1 on my battery selector. connected to my port engine/charger

I also have a G24 1000cca marine starting battery that is battery #2 and connected to my starboard engine/charger

my 3rd battery is a G24 stand alone and is only connected my genset/battery charger.

Here is my problem. I currently have a promariner prosport 20amp 3 bank charger. This charger is not up to the task of charging the Trojans.

Do I either upgrade my current charger to a pronuatic 1240p? or do I get a 2x100w solar panels and a 40amp solar controller to charge the tojans? or both?

Thank you for you input!

Hey Folks,
I require your help and advise with a project.
As I am now using the boat I have found a soft area on the centerline engine room hatch. This was not evident in the fall. The soft area runs from the engine room lock to the about halfway to stern door.
My first thought was de-lamination. I was thinking that over the freeze and thaw of winter the core detached from the glass.
When I took a good look at the underside I noticed that the lock was rusty. Now I am thinking water intrusion.
Does anyone know of a fix that I can do myself instead of getting a glass guy ($!) for the job.
Since I have access to the underside, I can make holes, etc., without affecting the cosmetics topside.
I remember seeing a product on a TV show which after drilling a couple of holes, was 'pumped' in on one side and
came out of the side. It cures hard.
Does anyone have thoughts, experience or recommendations to help me out?
Thanks