Hi,

I''m looking at possibly getting a 1981 3007 Aft Cabin. Some of the plastic portlight windows are cracked / broken. Does anyone know if replacements are available and where I might get them from? I tried e-mailing Carver, but they didn't have much information on boats that old.

Same thing on the forward hatch above the V-Berth. Can the broken window part be replaced, or does it have to be replaced as a whole unit?

Great forum! Lots of useful information and nice folks!

Bruce

Has anyone switched over to an aftermarket EFI setup, namely the throttle body type? There are so many options out there that I was just wondering what others have used. FiTech, Holley Sniper, and Edelbrock have the setup where the ECU is enclosed in the throttle body. F.A.S.T. has the setup where the ECU is separate but is Marine Certified. I don't really see an issue with the first three because the ECU is sealed in the TB as long as all the connectors are suitable for a marine environment. The F.A.S.T. setup is the most expensive but they have the most experience over the other three with EFI. So if you have used any of these please chime in with your experience.

I was using compressed air to remove water from the raw water condenser cooling system piping for the air conditioners. Noticed on the bottom of swim-platform, where water normally drains for the condensers there was a small amount of water leaking from where the swim platform attaches to hull of boat. Just below and forward of the drains. My question is. Is the swimplatform hollow? And the water discharge is into the platform then out the drain holes.?

Hello all,

I'm a recently new owner of a 95 330 Mariner. Let me apologize in advance for the long post, I have a lot of info I need to put out there.
My story begins like this: Purchased said boat in Tom's River New Jersey from a small dealer/broker. I think it was in his marina for about 2 years. We went up looked at the boat, had it surveyed and hauled, and decided it was a "good risk" and purchased it. It is our third boat.
After some work we(my wife and I) decided we needed to get her out of her current situation at the marina in New Jersey and move her to our home marina in Chesapeake City, MD about a 10 to 12 hour run. Our journey began a couple of few weeks ago. The boat which we named Off$hore Investment was running great, aside from a nuisance low oil pressure alarm on the port engine which the surveyor deemed to be unreliable/intermittent, and I subsequently disconnected while underway. We(me and two friends from work, who are all licensed A&P helicopter mechanics) made it all the way to Long Beach Island/ Beach Haven, NJ when we noticed fluctuating RPM's on the port engine. We noticed a water leak from the exhaust on the port engine. It was spraying all over the engine compartment. I shut the port engine down, wrapped it with some Flex-tape(its amazing stuff, you should carry a roll for emergency repairs). When I attempted to restart the port engine, it would crank twice, and then click, click, click... At that point we got a little closer to the shore than I wanted and subsequently ran aground, stalling the starboard engine.
After some four letter words, we attempted to restart the starboard engine and discovered that all 12 VDC power on board was dead. I was able to get the genny started and after grounding on two more sandbars were towed into Beach Haven. After we tied up and connected shore power for about 5 minutes the starboard engine fired up no problem. The port engine never did start again, exhibiting the same symptoms dockside as it did underway.
I have my theories as to what happened(bad alternator on stbd. engine, bad connection on the pos. battery cable on #2 battery). The mechanic at the yard keeps telling me he needs a little more time " to work things out" on the port engine. I'm just afraid the port engine ingested water from the leaking exhaust and washed out the cylinder(s). I'm willing to take all suggestions as long as they're free.
Engines are 350 Crusaders with around 300 +- 20 hours

Hi all,
My husband and I recently traded our 2004 Four Winns 248 Vista for a 1995 Carver Mariner 330 - looking for more room to move around when we have guests.
It needs some work. Bought it in NJ and we are at a marina in Northern Maryland. Tried to move it down and got as far as LBI when had some engine trouble and we're wintering in Beach Haven, NJ for some TLC.
Very excited about learning about our new boat and looking forward to great memories.
We'd love to chat w/ anyone who has a 330 Mariner of approximately the same age for tips.
Kim&Mike

That's right. If I have the pattern on file for your boat or you are within Maryland to Conn and I can measure the boat, take 15% off all custom-made Fisher covers. We can do out-or-water storage covers or in-water storage covers.

Call or email and let's see what we can do, thanks.

My new to me 2003 366 has twin Cummins 280Hp engines. When I turn the ignition on, the blowers start & run continuosly - blowing in & sucking out.
In my previous diesel boats the blowers were activated only when re-fuelling.

Is this how the boat was delivered new? or has the PO changed the wiring for some reasons?

I note that I have a lot of black soot stains in all the carpet joins & I guess this may be why.

Pleased to take the helm of this beauty - in great shape for a 16 year old.
Plying the waters of Fort Lauderdale



Sharkdaddy

2001 Carver Voyager 374
Twin Cummins Diesel 6BTA 370 HP
Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Question. What is the best way to winterize the City Water hookup section of hose? For the rest of the water system, the intake on the water pump was removed and antifreeze was pumped throughout the system.

The City Water section has a back flow valve so you can't pump your stored water out the fitting. It also has a pressure reducer in it.

Thoughts?

My 1992 Carver 33 aft cabin came with electric burners and a microwave oven underneath. I rarely (if ever) use a microwave, and would much rather have a convection oven in its place. Any suggestions?