Ok, spending the weekend on our 350 Mariner and watching some college football. It has never been more clearer than now that I MUST upgrade the 19" TV! Will be upgrading ALL equipment and leaning towards doing it myself, but not sure which components are needed, above the normal head unit, amplifiers, TV and speakers. Any suggestions on online sources for marine audio tutorials?

I have a new to me 2003 366 with 280HP Cummins & an 8 KvA Kohler. I have had part of 1 summer on board so far & we are loving the space & the set up. However I am now doing pre-season maintenance like filters etc.
It's true to say I haven't paid much attention to where the raw water from the generator exits the boat until now.

I replaced the impeller & took the heat exchanger off & cleaned it up, flushed & replaced the coolant & started it up. The first thing I looked for was to see the raw water discharge.

There was none I could see. None coming out of the exhaust outlet at the stern of the boat.
Expecting a blockage between the siphon break & the muffler, I've spent some time cleaning out the hoses etc with Barnacle Buster type stuff. If I now blow through the hose at the siphon break I can hear bubbles in the muffler.

But still no water out of the exhaust outlet.

However I do see the water coming out underneath the boat part-way down the hull. The generator runs OK but surely it's not meant to be in effect a dry exhaust going the length of the boat?

Because the generator is under the floor & up against a bulkhead I can't see the elbow mixer for the exhaust & the raw water, without cutting some extra hatches in floor.

Can anyone help with information for this model 366 exactly where the raw water is supposed to come out from the generator?

I haven't really thought about it much, but I have a 10' recreational kayak that I would like to have with me when I start doing some serious boating with my Carver 33, anchoring out, etc., and am wondering how best to attach it without it being too much in the way. Does anyone have any photos showing how they've done this?

Hey Folks,
I was going to wait until the 'winter doldrums' to post this one but I am too interested in getting feedback from all of you. I very much appreciate your insights.
When I pulled the boat for storage, I noticed that the port trim tab was damaged. It was obviously bent as compared to the starboard side. I did not hit anything ( I would have noticed that), but we were on a couple of trips where she 'was a rocking'!
They are Bennett tabs 22x12.
Has anyone ever come across this or had this happen? In my boating experience, this is a new one.
I did call Bennett and they suggested that 'water pressure' could cause this. They mentioned that offer a new designed tab that has a 90 degree 'up-bend' on the edges. They tell me that will help negate this issue.
Any thought?
Also, as I will be replacing the port side tab (about $175.00 USD plus labor), would you replace the starboard as well?
Thanks.

https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2017/kidde ... charge-and

These are on a lot of boats out there. Found this on the great loop forum. If you have these model numbers Kidde will replace them free of charge.

Hope the link works, but if not go to the cpsc.gov site and look for recalls in 2017.

I read on the Boat US site that over 60000 boats were either destroyed or damaged by the hurricanes this season. I wonder how much our insurance premiums will go up next year. Back in 2007 there was an active hurricane season then. The following year 2008 my boat insurance premium almost doubled. So, I called up my agent to ask why. He stated there were massive losses in Florida that year and the costs had to be spread around.

I'm thinking, I live in Michigan and we do not get hurricanes here why do I have to pay for those who live in hurricane prone areas. I paid $388 for my insurance this year. Wondering if history will repeat and I will pay a lot more next year.

We're trying to figure out if the waterline of our swim platform is normal for our model boat.

We purchased a new to us 2004 Carver 366 Aft Cabin MY at the beginning of this year. The swim platform water line is MUCH lower than the platform on our previous 325 Aft. Without adding anything the swim platform was just a couple of inches above the water. This seems to be by design, and perhaps due to the engines Volvo Penta D-6-310s (our boat survey says "this is one of the few boats fitted with the diesel 310 HP Volvo with electronic controls and a bow thruster" - I only mention this because it may add to the overall weight). We've been asking around and the only theory that makes a little sense is that the hull was designed for lighter gas engines and our boat has the heavier diesels.

We finally got around to installing a Weaver Snap Davit for our 9' inflatable and we added a Weaver Motosto for our Nissan 9.9 outboard. So, we've added maybe 200 lbs to the swim platform, and now the platform is just about touching the water. In fact, when you stand on the platform is does touch.
Note : this is with empty water tanks and fuel tanks at 3/4

Has anyone else had this problem? If so, what did you do to remedy the situation. We're thinking of adding ballast forward? Any remarks or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

What kind of setup are you using to connect water hose to 1.25" inlet hose between thru hull and pump inlet.....I would like to put in something more permanent that makes it convenient for me to use for fall winterize and spring start up.Any pros and cons for the stuff on the market.

My husband and I are in the market for a Santego and found one that was damaged in the storms in Texas. However, the damage could be extensive and I'm not even sure how much there is at this point. Waiting for more information from the owners.
What I have is in the pictures below and the fact that water did get inside the boat but did not damage the engines or generator. This has been sitting in the yard for some time and has had time to dry out but would the fiberglas hull repair be too much to undertake or too expensive? My husband has some former fiberglass repair however with vehicle body shops. But we are obviously looking to find an experienced boat repair facility for this job if at all possible. We are in the middle of missouri/illinois and not many around here that I know of for this type of job.
Any suggestions or thoughts would be appreciated as we are new to the boat world and want to make the best possible decision for us in the long run.

I have 2004 8.1 GiI Volvo Penta engines and recently had issues with fuel starvation at higher RPM's on one motor. A dock mate with the same VP's had this problem on both motors this year. After research and inspection of my friends pumps, the issue is that the internal areas of the pumps are painted. As they age the paint starts to bubble, peel, and clog ports. Never in my decades of messing with motors have I seen this. I contacted VP but as usual they will not speak directly to you. A Google search has shown this is becoming a common problem with these VP pumps. Do other manufactures paint the insides?

At about $1200 per pump (plus labor if you hire a mechanic) this misstep has created a new business for at least one entrepreneur. He takes your pump(s), tears them down, removes internal/external paint via chemical or abrasives, repaints them (yep, you guessed it, outside only), checks the high and low pressure pumps, reassembles them with new o-rings/gaskets, tests them again, and ships them back. He charges $300 each if you don't need HP or LP pumps, $430 if you do. I plan on using his service this winter.

This was part rant and part for information if you're finding issues with VP fuel starvation that filter replacement doesn't resolve. I'm not throwing shade on Volvo Penta as overall I am happy with their engines, just not this particular issue.