I need to know if I have counter rotating engines
Boat is 1991 Carver 2828 Command Bridge, twin crusader 350's with V drives.
Facts I know for sure: Port Engine is standard rotation; port prop is left hand.
Starboard engine was sat in place by previous owner; no starter and is a 305 that needs to come out and be replaced with a 350.
Starboard prop is right hand.
Based on it being the incorrect engine, I can't check timing or anything else to know 100% which way the starboard engine is supposed to rotate.
Does anyone know how this would have come out of the factory?

Thanks, Russel
1991 Carver Command Bridge
Twin Crusader 350's
V Drive

I'm looking at getting my Captains license. As part of the course, you need to have some many days driving a certain size boat. I was wondering what I should put down? I know Length (36'7") and Width (12'9"). But Depth (37") does not seam right. Also I have a fly bridge and need to account for that in section #7. Any thoughts?

It's listed as 17,414 pounds, but that's not it's carrying capacity.

If you use the link bellow, it calculates your gross tonnage and net tonnage.
https://homeport.uscg.mil/Lists/Content ... G-5397.pdf

I recently went out and when applying full power to get up on plane the port engine would not accelerate past 2000 rpms. After several attempts the engine quit. We checed the racor filter and determined the fuel was low in the filter. We topped off filter with 3 cuos of fuel primed the engine and she fired right up. Came back in and replaced the filter and orings. Went back out and same problem except it came up to 2800 roms for a short time and then rolled back. It never quit again but its clear I have a fuel starvation issue. Cant figure out why? Ran boat with fuel cap off to check vent and same issue.

Hi - I have decided to go with a Carver/Trojan Express the 37-40 foot 1992-1999 Model. Can anyone provide Information and or opinions on what to look for in my search.
This past weekend I looked at a 1998 37 Express. The dealer readily admitted to moisture issues in the transom 4X4 sections by the trim tabs. Upon inspection the bow & pulpit section had high moisture reading and possible delimitation occurring when I got to the stringers undertake engine mounts on both sides the meter went off the charts. Ascetically the boat was beautiful seemed well kept however I believe there to be additional issues that I am not being told about. I looked at a 1992 earlier in the summer which sold quicker than I was ready to pull the trigger on.

Guidance in regards as to what to look for would be appreciated I have been told the 1998 was the best year structurally speaking what the differences between the 1998 and earlier models? Also curious about the V drives heard there might be issues with those as well.

OK, I am almost positive I have a leak in my fresh water system, but not really sure how to get to the last place for me to get at. Here is my symptoms and what I have done:

Symptoms
* water accumulates in the fwd bilge whenever we are at the boat and water pressure is applied.
* No additional water accumulates during the week when we are away.

Areas checked
* all connections along fresh water holding tank are dry
* connection feeding vacu-flush toilet is dry
* Lines leading to the fwd part of the V- are dry.
* lav sink lines are dry
* Shower lines are dry

To me this only leaves the line that leads up to and under the V-berth bed. I'm assuming the lines have to do a 180 in that general area to go over to the lav area, but have no clue how to access them.

Am I missing something? Anyone have any idea how to check that area?

Hi all, we just received the enclosure pieces of all the side/rear and front from the P.O. of our new to us boat. They appear to have not been used in quite some time and were stored rolled up in large yard bags for safe keeping. Now the sections with isinglass are all (hopefully not forever) molded in the shape they were stored...

Question is - what's the safest way to restore proper shape and get them stretched back into shape so they fit properly to bimini and boat sides?

I've not had isinglass to tend for ever so I've no idea where to start... was thinking maybe hanging say on a wall and using a blow drier to gently warm and pull into shape?

Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated!!

Mark

Hello,
Is it normal to have water in the bilges? Specifically I have around my 98 350 mariner for three years and they’re always seems to be a little bit of water in each of the bilge areas which I assume is normal. Is that the case? It doesn’t seem possible to keep the water out because someone out will always be residual left behind by the pumps. Also I always have a little bit of water laying in each of the smaller areas under each engine Where the shafts exit the boat maybe as much as an inch or 2 inches deep which does not seem to be extracted by the bilge as easily as the center area near the aft bilge. Any thoughts in these areas would be appreciated.

Hey all, I have a picky question. I clean, polish and wax my boat myself and hit it hard in the offseason. My boat generally looks GREAT in May but dull in August. I have been using Flagship Wax. For you “master waxers”, what wax do you find is the best? Also I have had people tell me that I need to put on 4 or 5 coats of wax but that seems extremely time consuming. Thoughts?

Most of us have already converted our halogen/incandecent lighting to LED including myself however for those who have not here are some tips.


Early on LED lights were cool white only, some like it but I find it too white with almost a blue tint to it, the early versions of warm white were rather green in effect and looked ok but a little odd. Point is both did not do well in light color in comparison to halogen which is just right IMHO.

Fast forward 8-10 years and many alternatives have hit the market. My favorite is the silicone encased type I always try to purchase the dimmable type as even if you do not have a dimmer you may want to add one somewhere down the road. Do not assume they are dimmable, read what you are buying and make sure the description says dimmable. To be able to dim LED you do need to have a PWM (pulse wave modulation) dimmer that is. Sounds fancy but can be had for a few dollars on eBay.

You do not need to purchase LED bulbs at the Marine store and pay $15 each. The can be had for more like 75 cents each which is on the expensive side since I just bought a pack of 50 @ 66 cents each delivered to Canada. Most are available in 3 or 6 watt. 3 is more than enough IMHO. https://www.ebay.com/itm/G4-Led-Bulb-Di ... 2749.l2649

Most common bulb type on boats is by far the G4, bi pin 12v style. Usually found in the overhead lighting as in the link above. There are also others such as festoon but one needs to be careful are there are quite a few lengths out there so measure yours before you order anything.

Courtesy lights tend to be mostly T10 also referred to as 168 or 194. Problem here is finding the right color and brightness. The ones I have now are quite nice but I tend to experiment so Just bought 20 of these to try out. Unfortunately by the time I get them it may not be until spring before I can report back. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-T10-194- ... SwImRYSShU

Would love to hear about your experimentation and results.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement door latch mechanism for my 2001 Carver 506 ?
I have pics attached. I don't even see a manufacturers name.
Thanks !
Jim