I’ve had one rather peculiar problem with my boat over the years, and I think I may have figured it out and to some extent, have resolved it. Basically, when my boat was about 20 years old or so, the hatch cover at the cabin entrance became soft with wet rot.

The picture below is not my boat, but the same model, and shows the hatch cover in an open position.



The cover was made of ¾” plywood with a white Formica top and varnished on the bottom. The edges were tapered and teak trim was added. The wood around the mounting plate for the gas strut became too soft and the strut fell away, mounting screws and all.

So I rebuilt it, saving the teak as it was in good shape. I used a new piece of plywood with hardwood veneer, and varnished it with polyurethane varnish. For the top, I used a piece of 14” white plastic; I think is polyethylene.

Much to my dismay, a mere two years later, I noticed the gas strut hanging down again, but this time something different had happened. The plywood was like powder held together by the exterior varnish.

Oh darn! So I rebuilt it again. This time I used 3M 5200 between the teak trim and the plywood. Yet, two years later, the same thing happened. The plywood turned to sort of a dust.

So I rebuilt it again, however this time instead of varnishing the plywood, I gave it a few coats of West System epoxy. Again, I used 3M 5200 to join the trim to the plywood, and even dribbled some epoxy in the screw holes for extra protection.

This time it lasted 3 years until eventually the plywood turned to dust. At this point, I was not only frustrated, but confused. But I did come up with a theory. The original cover had a Formica top, but my rebuilds all used this white plastic. It seemed to me that it was possible that sunlight was passing through the plastic and baking the plywood.

Now I suppose I could have tried to laminate some Formica to the plywood for my next attempt, but seeing I had the plastic, and didn’t know much about purchasing a small piece of Formica, I thought I’d try something different.

I decided to add a piece of Aluminum foil between the plywood and the plastic, shiny side up to reflect the sunlight from getting through.



Two years passed and it was still fine when I covered it last Fall. I fully expect it to OK when I uncover it this Spring. So…. It looks like I have found and rectified the problem. I’ll know for sure if it lasts a few more years or longer.

At the beginning of this post, I stated that I “to some extent, have resolved it”. Maybe I have resolved the plywood disintegration problem, but there’s another issue. The 5200 always seems to crack away. It appears it doesn’t like to stick to teak very well. I suppose sorting that out is as easy as trying another type of sealant. Any suggestions?


ps: I saw a picture of a boat like mine on the net; presumably newer, and it appeared to have a 1-piece fibreglass hatch (no trim either). Probably an upgrade by Carver, but not as pretty either. LOL.

I'm about to install an exhaust temperature alarm on my Carver with twin Caterpillar 3208's. There are two popular products that I'm considering from Borel Mfg. and Aqualarm. Both products use a band that clamps around the exhaust after the mixer. The Borel alarm trips at 165F and the Aqualarm trips at 200F, both of these cannot be correct for the application. If 165F is the correct temp for this application, then Aqualarms product at 200F will not trip early enough and engine damage may already be taking place. If the 200F setting on the Aqualarm product is the proper setting, the Borel 165F product will set off early false alarms. Can anyone shed some light on this?

I had this question in a another post but didn’t get any replies.

Guys, I have a question. My boat is in the water. I have compounded polished and waxed the lower hull (the hard part). Would like to get advise on how you compound and wax up front between the fly bridge window and the lower front window. Can’t crawl up and can’t hang from the fly bridge.

Typing this, it sounds like a silly question but would really like to hear how others do it. Thanks for the help.

Referencing my 1996 355;

In the hull area of the galley there is ponding water but seemingly only when the ac is used as I never saw water during the winter. I looked at the ac unit and didn't see a source coming from it.

Where could it be coming from?

launched Wednesday April 18. Earliest ever .

Carver 3207 1990

I've searched to find the dimensions of the bed area in aft cabin to replace mattress but no luck. We threw the mattress out before measuring and can't get in boat for a few weeks.

also we noticed the floor in the aft cabin was a bit wet in one corner after we took it out for a spin but then it became really wet and none of the mechanics here seem to be able to find the problem.

anyone?

Hello all, I have a Raritan icerette that I am replacing with a refrigerator. I put a new ice tray assembly in it two years ago. Its 20 years old but still looks and works 100%.
If anyone is interested I would sell it for $200.

I could meet you in Georgetown MD, Northeast, MD or Lancaster, PA. I don't think anyone would want to pay to ship this.

Let me know if there is any interest.
Thanks
Tom

I have recently purchased a 444 Aft Cockpit and am researching suitable dinghy/tender retrieval and storage systems. I am somewhat familiar with all the systems out there but was wondering if anyone here would recommend any particular system they may have on their 444. Pros and cons etc.

Hello!

I am new to the site and hoping I can pick some brains on the Carver Riviera 2807. I have been a fan of Carvers ever since I had pictures of them posted up on my wall as a teenager! We are in the final stages of purchasing a 1983 Carver Riviera 2807 and I was hoping to hear from anyone who has owned one regarding the pros, cons, things to watch out for, their experiences with the boat etc.

Thanks so much!

Bake

Hey guys finally have the chance to tear into my Sherwood pumps. Putting new impellers and cams in for sure. The port side pump has some side to side play when the end cap is off, but the bearing is smooth and seal does not leak, is this something to be concerned about? The starboard pump has zero play and is smooth.

Here are some pics..

Thanks much.